Mastering Cone 6 Glazes book review

Mastering Cone 6 Glazes, cover of 2020 reissue.

Mastering Cone 6 Glazes is a classic glaze book originally published in 2002 that is still relevant today, especially if you make functional pottery. With a subtitle of “Improving Durability, Fit and Aesthetics” the book by John Hesselbarth and Ron Roy contains a series of chapters explaining how to mix glazes, how to test them, and then gets into the nitty gritty of making stable glazes, fitting the glazes to your clay bodies, ideas for reducing cutlery marking, and how to develop your own glazes. The book was republished in 2020 and is available in paperback with non-glossy images throughout. (The images aren’t the greatest quality, but they get the job done.)

A lot of the information in this book is now available online in various places—including many of the glaze recipes—but if you’re like me, you may find a well organized book to be incredibly helpful in explaining the science and ideas behind making a stable glaze that is durable and hopefully doesn’t craze or result in cutlery marks. This book was a much needed update to the practical experience I’ve acquired along with the hazy memories of the clay and glaze class I took many, many years ago.

The back cover.

In addition to the science behind the glazes, the authors provide a series of glaze recipes, which they have tested extensively for fit, leaching, and cutlery marking. As they claim in the book, these might be the most thoroughly tested glaze recipes in recent history.

That’s not to say the book is perfect or right for everyone. A few points:

  1. The book is really aimed at production potters and those making glazes for functional surfaces like eating or tiles, who are firing at cone 6 in oxidation kiln atmospheres.

  2. You can find similar how-tos and glaze-science explainers in a variety of other glaze books or online, but this is one of the most thorough and understandable explanations on these topics I’ve encountered in print form.

  3. Materials have changed since the book was published. A good number of the recipes contain G-200 Feldspar, which is no longer available. Apparently the ebook version contains updated recipes, but if you buy the print edition, plan to spend some time looking at the reformulated recipes on the book’s website.

  4. To my knowledge, the printed book has not been updated since 2002. I believe that what you are getting with the 2020 reissue is exactly the same as the 2002 edition.

More details on the book and images will be posted below, but if you are a production potter, this is a book you should definitely read and contend with, to help understand if you are making glazes in a safe effective way. This greater understanding will help guide you as you choose glazes for your pots, wether or not you use the recipes from this particular book.

Mastering Cone 6 Glazes
by John Hesselbarth and Ron Roy
Reissued in 2020 by Echo Point Books & Media
168 pages. Typically available for around $30

Table of Contents page 1

Table of Contents page 2

More details on Mastering Cone 6 Glazes

Let’s go through chapter by chapter:

Introduction and Chapter 2 introduce the book, ideas of food safety, and how to set up and glaze ceramic work. This is probably info you’ve encountered in a class or studio, but it’s a good refresher.

A 2-page spread from Chapter 3, including images of the lemon test on glazes.

Chapter 3 covers testing glazes for stability and fit. While the authors ran their glazes through professional testing laboratories for leach testing, they also describe some tests you can do in your own studio such as a lemon slice on glaze. They also go into detail on more considerations including resistance to alkalis, thermal shock, knife and cutlery marking, and more. The authors are thorough on this topic.

Chapter 4 covers information on making a stable glaze, and how that is defined. In short, they are looking for a glaze that doesn’t leach, doesn’t mark, and doesn’t craze. Lots of ideas and recipe limitations are introduced.

A 2-page spread from Chapter 5

Chapter 5, which covers glaze fit, was definitely a chapter I had to read 2 or 3 times to fully understand. The authors introduce using a dilatometer to measure glaze expansion and contraction, but as that is an expensive tool for most, they’ve done an amazing thing by introducing 5 different glazes with different coefficients of expansion. (None of these glazes are recommended in chapter 6, they are simply glazes to test for crazing/dunting/glaze fit on clay bodies in your studio) Their idea is that you can use their dilatometer-tested glazes on your own clay bodies. By noting which recipe will result in crazing on your clay body or not, you will have a good idea what the coefficient of expansion is in each clay body you use. You can then use this info, along with glaze programs such as glazy.org or DigitalFire, to more easily identify glazes that will have a good glaze fit with your clay. It’s a pretty good tradeoff to buying your own dilatometer.

The recipes in chapter 5 all contain G-200, which is no longer available, so the authors have helpfully posted reformulated recipes here, but you’ll need their explanation in the book to fully understand what they are proposing with this series of tests. The authors also tested their glazes on Standard Ceramic clay bodies #365 and #306, but the idea is that you can test these glazes on the clay bodies you use, to determine the best fit.

Chapter 6 includes the authors glazes for cone 6 stoneware and porcelain. Out of respect for their intellectual property, I’m not going to post recipes here, but many are now available online on various sites. These glazes have all been tested in studio and leach tested in laboratories, so you can be assured the glazes are safe. Because of this rigorous testing, there are not a lot of recipes but it’s definitely enough to get started. Included are:

A 2-page spread from the glaze chapter, with images showing how the base glazes can be transformed using various oxide combinations.

  • 2 high-calcium semi-matte base glazes with 3 color variations each

  • 2 glossy base glazes with 5 color variations total

  • 1 glossy clear liner glaze

  • 1 zinc semi-matte base glaze with 6 variations

  • 1 chrome-tin pink glossy glaze

  • 2 brown glazes

  • 1 cone 6 “maiolica” white glaze

It’s not a lot of glazes, but the authors’ research and testing is much appreciated.

Chapter 7 includes info on developing your own glazes using all the information in the book. As one can see with many of the recipes included in this book, materials will change over time so it’s not a simple matter of just having a recipe. It’s about understanding the chemistry and science of the glaze, along with developing the aesthetic touches that you want in your ware.

The book then concludes with almost 60 pages of more info and appendixes.

All in all, this book felt like working through a workshop on cone 6 glazes with a detailed approach by two instructors who were super excited and committed to their material.

Conclusion and Other Glazes to Research

While Mastering Cone 6 Glazes is a great book, it should be mentioned that as of this writing, the info in the book is 20 years old. It’s not that the science has changed—all of that info holds up—it’s just that you may have other desired outcomes for your glazes along understanding all the science presented in this book. The matte glazes in MC6 are high calcium mattes, and there are other recipes with different materials. With that in mind, you might want to review other glaze recipes and approaches that have become quite popular since this book was written. Also, the MC6 authors focus on color variations using oxides, and you may wish to go with stains for your colorants. With any of the options, the takeaway from this book is that you need to master the science, and then apply it to your own clay and firing conditions.

DigitalFire has a bunch of recipes for a variety of glaze temperatures posted here. Of these, I’d look most closely at the cone 6 glazes G1214Z silky matte, G2934 Magnesium Matte Glaze, and G2926B Clear Glossy. These are public recipes, and two of these glazes are available for purchase from Plainsman Clay.

The other glaze that is so popular these days is the buttery Katz-Burke Matte, which can be found on glazy.org.

To conclude, I really value the Mastering Cone 6 book for really getting me to dig into Seger unity formula and understanding things like Coefficient of Expansion in clay and glaze. It was a technical read, but this book was the key that really unlocked a deeper understanding of how to approach cone 6 glazes to get the best glaze fit and reduce cutlery marking. Sure, you can find much of the same info in other books or online but for $30, I was happy to read along in this well presented book, which will become another vital resource in my studio.

How to Test Specific Gravity in a Ceramic Glaze and Why It's Important

glass hydrometer used to measure specific gravity of a ceramic glaze

A hydrometer is one of measuring the specific gravity of a glaze. For ceramic glazes, use a hydrometer that measures between 1.00 and 2.00.

Testing the specific gravity of a ceramic glaze allows you to accurately measure the ratio of dry materials to water in a glaze, or basically how “thick” a glaze is. It also allows you to maintain a glaze over time, and remix more that will be exactly the same.

Keep in mind that there is not one specific gravity for glazes, instead, each glaze will vary slightly based on the materials in the glaze and the desired application. But in general, glazes range from 1.40 to 1.60.

There are also a few methods of measuring the specific gravity of a glaze. In this post, there will be three options covered:

  • using a hydrometer

  • measuring in a graduated cylinder

  • measuring in a cup


Table of Contents

  1. What is Specific Gravity?

  2. Measuring Specific Gravity with a Hydrometer

  3. Measuring Specific Gravity with a Graduated Cylinder

  4. Measuring Specific Gravity with a Small Cup

  5. Equipment Needed for Measuring Specific Gravity

  6. Summary

What is Specific Gravity in a Glaze?

Specific gravity measures the ratio of dry materials to water in a glaze.

As an example, if you had 150 grams of dry materials mixed with 100 grams of water, your glaze would have a specific gravity of 1.50 (150 / 100 = 1.50)

Water alone has a specific gravity of 1.00 — this will be important in our calculations.

Measuring Specific Gravity with a Hydrometer

Hydrometers are fragile glass tubes with a metal weight and scale.

A hydrometer is a glass tube with a leaded weight that is designed to float and measure specific gravity. They are quick and easy to use, provided that your glaze bucket is deep enough, but they are fragile—extremely fragile. Despite this, they are my favorite way to measure specific gravity. I’ve been using the same hydrometer for years, I just make sure to not drop it and carefully wrap it in paper towels and put it in its box when not in use.

When choosing a hydrometer, make sure to pick a “heavy liquid” or “heavier than water” hydrometer, as there are a variety of hydrometers for different applications. (Shop hydrometers at Amazon)

How to Use a Hydrometer

For glazes, you will need a “heavy liquid” hydrometer that measures between 1.00 and 2.00.

After mixing a glaze, simply place your hydrometer carefully into the glaze bucket and allow it to settle, and then take a reading.

Hydrometer measuring a ceramic glaze at 1.50

A hydrometer measuring a glaze at 1.50. In this instance, the glaze was placed in a graduated cylinder to create a tall enough column for the hydrometer to floate.

Alternately, if your glaze bucket is not tall enough, pour glaze into a graduated cylinder or smaller bucket, and then take a measurement (as pictured).

Hydrometer in a graduated cylinder to measure specific gravity of a ceramic glaze

After taking your reading, adjust your glaze as needed. In general, I like to add water slowly until I reach my desired specific gravity. You may also need to wait a day and then measure again, to make sure your glaze is just how you want it.

As you use your glaze, note the results you are getting out of the kiln and adjust your glaze if needed. Taking notes really helps!

For every glaze I mix, I note the specific gravity when initially mixed. Then, if it seems to be getting thick or changing in some way (water does evaporate over time!) you can measure and adjust.

Measuring Specific Gravity with a Graduated Cylinder

If you don’t have a hydrometer, you can measure a glaze with just a graduated cylinder. Use a cylinder that can measure at least 100 milliliters and a scale. You will need a scale that is accurate to 1 gram or even better, 0.1 grams.

For this method, place your graduated cylinder or cup on a scale and zero out the scale.

Then, fill your cylinder to 100 mL and note the weight. As our calculation is (glaze weight / water alone = specific gravity) the calculation is very simple. If the glaze weighs 145, you have a specific gravity of 1.45. If it weighs 150, your s.g. is 1.50, etc.

As before, adjust your glaze as necessary after measuring, and remeasure.

Measuring Specific Gravity with a Small Cup

If you have a scale but no graduated cylinder, you can still measure specific gravity with a small cup.

The best way to do this is to put the cup on your scale, zero the scale, then fill the cup completely full with water. Note the weight of the water and write this down. Even better: write it on the cup so that you have an easy reference.

Then, empty the cup and refill it completely full with glaze and weigh. You will have to do a quick calculation to determine your specific gravity. If the glaze in the cup weighs 375 grams and the water alone in the cup weighed 250 grams, your glaze has a specific gravity of 1.50 (375 g / 250 g = 1.50).

Shop the Equipment Needed for Measuring Specific Gravity

Heavy Liquid Hydrometer and case

This heavy liquid hydrometer is available at Amazon for $12.

Hydrometer

To measure the specific gravity of a ceramic glaze, you will need a “heavy liquid” hydrometer, or one that measures between 1.00 and 2.00. These are available at ceramic suppliers, or at Amazon.

Graduated Cylinder

plastic 250 ml graduated cylinder with octagonal base

Plastic 250 ml graduated cylinder.

A graduated cylinder is handy for glaze measuring, or for creating a taller column to use a hydrometer.

In my studio, I use a plastic 250 mL graduated cylinder. This is big enough that I can float my hydrometer, or use it to measure 100 mL of glaze.

Scale

In my studio, I like to use the Oxo 11 lb kitchen scale. It’s durable, accurate to 1 gram, can weigh up to 11 lbs, is easy to clean, and costs around $55. It’s a great scale at a relatively modest price.

If you want something more accurate, a check out the MyWeigh iBalance 5500. It is accurate to 0.1 grams, can weigh up to 5500 grams (approx. 12 lbs), and costs about $250.

For a complete overview of scales for ceramic studios, click here.

Summary

This post has covered three different methods of testing specific gravity in ceramic glazes, and the equipment needed to measure specific gravity. Measuring specific gravity is important for keeping glazes consistent, so that you will get repeatable results from your firings.

How do you measure specific gravity? Let us know in the comments.

How To Mix a Ceramic Glaze From Scratch

 
A red iron oxide glaze in the process of being run through a Talisman Glaze Sieve.

A red iron oxide glaze in the process of being run through a Talisman Glaze Sieve.

 

This post is an overview of how to mix a ceramic glaze from dry ingredients, including the tools, techniques and procedures to get you started.

Whether you buy a pre-mixed dry glaze or weigh each ingredient, there are a lot of advantages to mixing your own glaze:

  • Save money: Mixing glazes in your studio is always cheaper, sometimes as much as 80 to 90 percent cheaper than bottled glaze.

  • Customize: Learn how to modify slips and glazes to suit your kiln and clay bodies.

  • Learn glaze chemistry: Even a bit of info can help you get the results you want.

A variety of our favorite glaze recipes are posted here, and there are lots of websites and books with glaze recipes. There are endless amounts of glaze recipes, so if you are new to this, just start with one basic one such as a glossy clear. There are also pre-mixed, dry glazes which are effective and still save some money over buying bottled glazes.

Keep reading for the complete how to instructions.

Table of Contents

  • Glaze Mixing Tools and Accessories

  • How To Mix Glazes From Scratch

  • Testing and Storing Glazes

  • Summary

Glaze Mixing Tools and Accessories

Here’s what you need to mix glaze in your studio:

How To Mix Glazes From Scratch

  1. Review recipe.

    Check to make sure you have enough of each ingredient. It can be helpful to calculate and write out the amount of each material, to be used as a checklist.

  2. Prepare work area

    Put on a dust mask, clean your scale and work area. Get your materials, buckets, and scoops together.

  3. Zero scale

    Place your measuring pan or bowl on the scale and turn it on. If needed, press the tare button so that the scale is zeroed out.

  4. Weigh ingredients

    Weigh each ingredient (this is where your checklist is handy) and put them in a dry bowl or bucket. After measuring all the ingredients, mix the dry ingredients together. Some glaze ingredients, such as bentonite, are prone to clumping so it is important to mix everything dry first.

  5. Add to water and mix

    Add the mixed glaze materials to water and mix until it is thick cream or buttermilk consistency. An electric drill with a proper mixing blade greatly speeds up this process. A large plastic scraper will dislodge material from the side of the bucket. Once all the dry ingredients have been mixed with water, you can remove your mask if desired.

    Note: it’s best to add glaze materials to water. If you add water to a bucket of dry materials, it’s hard to get everything in the bottom corners mixed.

  6. Sieve and homogenize

    Prepare another clean bucket with a sieve, preferably a fine 80 mesh sieve. Run the glaze through the sieve this first time, to break up any clumps. A brush can help push material through the sieve, or a Talisman Glaze Sieve is a tool made specifically for mixing glaze into 5 or 10 gallon buckets.

    Then, clean the bucket where you will be storing the glaze. Run the glaze through the sieve a second time into this clean bucket.

  7. Test glaze consistency

    Glazes are typically mixed to a specific gravity, which measures the amount of dissolved solids in the water. Usually glazes are around 1.50, which means 50 parts dissolved solids to 100 parts water. Keep records and mix the glaze to a consistency that works for you.

    Specific gravity can be measured with a specialized (but fragile) hydrometer, or you can use a graduated cylinder on your scale. With your cylinder zeroed out on the scale, pour in 100ml of the mixed glaze and check the weight. Add water as needed, and mix.

  8. Label and store

    Glaze containers and lids should be labeled with the name, temperature, and any other information that will help you. Laminated, waterproof labels are best but packing tape can also protect a label for some time.

Testing and Storing Glazes

Testing Glaze

It is helping to make a test tile of a glaze, on each clay body you use. Vertical test tiles such as tubes from an extruder are best, as they show how a glaze will “move” with gravity. Dip your test tile with one and two dips to show how different thicknesses of glaze affect the color.

Some studios choose to make a test tile with each batch of glaze. But if you are careful to mix the glaze accurately to a similar specific gravity, and your firings are repeatable, you should get roughly the same glaze results each time. There are no guarantees with glaze though. It is important to keep records, both in a glaze book and a kiln log, in order to get standardized results. But, glaze materials do change over time so as necessary you can make new test tiles.

Storing glazes

Glazes can be stored in sealed containers or buckets almost indefinitely. Most glaze ingredients are inorganic and will not rot. But some ingredients, such as bone ash, can cause some rotting smells. To avoid this, make sure the glaze is mixed with some frequency. If the odor persists, you can add a trace amount of copper to any glaze (even white glazes!) without affecting the color. Copper is an anti-fungal and can cut down or eliminate odor. Read our post on that here.

Remixing glaze

As they are used, glazes do lose some moisture to evaporation and bisqueware can suck extra water out of the glaze mix. It can be helpful to mix and then do a quick visual check of the glaze. If necessary, you can re-check the specific gravity and add water. If a glaze seems thick or is glopping onto your pieces, it’s definitely time to check it and probably add water.

In addition, when I mix glaze, I will usually run all the old and new glaze through a sieve. Small bits of bisque and other contaminants can fall into a glaze bucket. When I’m using it, I want to know what I’ve got in that bucket. It does take extra work but having a double-sieved, homogenized glaze will result more even glaze application and hopefully, better results.

Summary

This post has covered a basic overview of mixing glazes from scratch. It covered the tools, techniques, and a few helpful hints to mix and store glazes. If you can follow a recipe, you can mix glaze. There is an overwhelming amount of glaze info out there, but if you start with just one basic recipe and grow from there, you will be a glaze master in no time and you will be able to customize and mix glazes to suit your own needs.

If you are looking for more info on mixing glazes, the glaze books by John Britt are some of the best resources.

The Complete Guide to Mid-Range Glazes

Buy at Bookshop.org

Buy at Amazon

The Complete Guide to High-Fire Glazes

Buy at Bookshop.org

Buy at Amazon

Questions or comments? Let us know in the comments.

The Best Glaze Mixing Accessories For Ceramic Studios

Mixing your own glazes from scratch is cost-effective and allows you to customize glazes to suit your studio. Whether you are mixing a powdered glaze with water, or weighing each ingredient and starting from scratch, having the ability to mix glazes opens up possibilities in your studio. You don’t need a huge set up to get started, a few simple tools and buckets are all you need. Below are reviews of our favorite glaze-mixing accessosories.

This list includes:

  • Drills

  • Immersion Blenders

  • Sieves and Strainers

  • Dust Protection

  • Mixer Blades

  • Scales

Drills

A drill is one of the most important glaze-mixing tools. Sure, you could get a big whisk or paddle and mix your glaze by hand, but….I wouldn’t recommend it.

For a drill, my favorite is the Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill. It’s compact, well built, and affordable. And it has enough power to mix a 5 gallon bucket and just enough power to mix 10 gallons of glaze. It’s also cordless, which I find easier to use in the studio but you do sacrifice some power and you’ll have to deal with recharging batteries.

There are a lot of drill options out there, with all sorts of options, battery and cord styles. For more info, check out the Studio Manager Cordless Drill Review and our Corded Drill Review

Immersion Blender

For small batches of glaze, especially test batches, an immersion blender is a great tool. Designed for kitchen use, these definitely have enough power to hold up in the studio. I would just make sure you have one dedicated for studio use and a separate blender for kitchen use.

For an immersion blender, I have never noticed much of a difference between name brands and generics. You just want a blender that will work and get your glaze mixed. A great option for this is the Mueller Austria 9 Speed Immersion Blender. You probably don’t need all those speeds, but it does have a turbo button which speeds things up. And at around $30-35, this is one of the more affordable immersion blenders on the market.

Sieves and Strainers

A sieve is an important part of mixing glazes. A sieve insures that particles are broken up and that the ingredients are evenly distributed in the glaze. Proper mixing and straining also reduces glazes flaws, generally resulting in a more even glaze. If you are mixing glazes from dry powder or from scratch, you must run them through a sieve. Generally, I have a variety of sieves in the studio including a simple kitchen sieve, a smaller tea strainer, and specialized tools such as the Talisman Rotary Sieve.

The Talisman Rotary Sieve.

The Talisman Rotary Sieve.

Talisman Rotary Sieve

The best tool for sieving glazes is the Talisman Rotary Sieve. This is a large, hand-cranked sieve that will fit over a 5 or 10 gallon bucket. It has three brushes which can be removed for cleaning (or replaced if worn out) and removable screens. This allows you to choose which size of mesh to screen your glaze. Typically, this is done somewhere between 80 to 120 mesh. The Talisman Rotary Sieve is expensive, usually $200-250, but it makes short work of the sieving process and the brush system helps break up smaller particles, resulting in a uniform glaze batch. It’s an incredibly well-built tool and if handled with respect, it will hold up for decades of use. Talisman Rotary Sieves are typically only available from speciality clay supply stores, so shop clay stores online or contact your local clay supplier.

Talisman Test Sieve

Talisman Test Sieve

Talisman Test Sieve

Another option, especially for glaze test batches, is a cup sieve such as the Talisman Test Sieve. These small sieves are stackable, come in a variety of mesh sizes from 5 to 250, and are really well built. You probably just need one or a few, I’d suggest an 80 to start and in my own studio, I generally just use 40 mesh for a rough sieve and 80 mesh for a fine sieve.

Cuisinart Fine Mesh Steel Strainer

Cuisinart Fine Mesh Steel Strainer

Fine Mesh Steel Strainers

Another useful tool is a kitchen steel mesh strainer. These are not fine enough for a final glaze strain, but the wider mesh is still useful for quickly breaking up chunks of material. They are also great for quickly processing glaze in order to remove any bisque chunks or other small things.

When mixing glaze, materials such as Wollastonite, Soda Ash, Borax, Zinc Oxide, and most oxides used for colorants and others must be run through glaze sieve (usually 80 mesh), but if you start with a kitchen sieve, you’ll get the big chunks out quickly and can have an easier time with the glaze sieve. Smaller strainers such as a tea strainer are also useful for quickly running an underglaze or small batch through mesh. Sometimes, a simple mix and strain can bring a thickened glaze, underglaze, or slip back to being easy to use.

A great option for a kitchen steel mesh strainer is the Cuisinart 3 pack of Fine Mesh Metal Strainers. The all-metal design makes it easy to clean and maintain, and the variety of sizes will help with most small to medium glaze batches, or if you need to quickly strain a chunky material before running it through a finer mesh. There is also a link to a similar product by ExcelSteel at Home Depot.

Recommended Sieve Sizes

Here’s a useful chart of recommended sieve mesh sizes to use when mixing glaze, slip, and casting slip.

Suggested Sieve Size.jpg

Face Masks and Dust Protection

Dust protection and personal protection equipment is vital when mixing glazes. The main worry is any sort of airborne particles, particularly the finest particles such as silica. Repeated exposure to these particles, found in all dry glaze and clay materials, can lead to respiratory problems. Some also choose to wear plastic gloves when mixing and using glazes. The best thing when thinking about gloves is to assess your own risk and work to understand what is in glazes and what may be dangerous.

Respirator

The 3M Respirator

The 3M Half Facepiece Respirator with P100 cartridge style filters.

The best dust protection is a respirator. These devices are reusable, fit on your face more tightly than a dust mask, and the filters can be replaced as needed. Although moisture can build up, I find them to be more comfortable than a paper or surgical type mask, and they definitely provide a tighter fit. One drawback though, is you can’t really talk to anyone while they are on.

For a respirator, I have always used a 3M half facepiece respirator with P100 filters. They are usually widely available, so it’s easy to find replacement filters in stores or online. It can be hard to tell if the filters are getting full of dust, so I generally buy new filters every 6 months. It can round around $20 for new filters, but as someone who works full time in ceramic studios, I don’t want to take any risks with my lungs.

If you don’t want to get a respirator, at the very least get a N95 or KN95 mask and wear it whenever you are working with dry glaze or clay materials. Also be aware, fine particles can remain in the air for a while, use caution when mixing and try to keep dust out of the air. For more, see our complete article on dust masks for studios.

Mixing Blades and Paddles

The right mixer blade will make your glaze and slip mixing quick and efficient. It’s best to stock different size mixers for mixing different amounts of glaze. These are the mixing blades I stock in my own studio.

The small Jiffy LM10 Mixer Blade

The small Jiffy LM10 Mixer Blade, also called a laboratory mixer.

Small Mixer Blade

To mix pint jars and small cups, the Jiffy LM10 Mixer Blade is just the right size. It’s 10 1/4” long with a 1 1/4” head.

 
Helix mixer blade for 1 to 2 gallon buckets

Helix mixer blade for 1 to 2 gallon buckets

MEDIUM MIXER BLADE

For one to two gallons, I prefer a helix mixer designed for 1 gallon buckets. It’s cheaper than a metal blade but it can really mix. As long as you don’t grind the plastic blades against buckets, these economical blades should last for years and also work well for jobs such as mixing plaster.

 
The Jiffy ES Mixer Blade for 2 to 10 gallon buckets of glaze.

The Jiffy ES Mixer Blade for 2 to 10 gallon buckets of glaze.

LARGE MIXER BLADE

For 5 or 10 gallon buckets, the Jiffy ES mixer blade is the way to go. It has a 20 1/2” long, 3/8” shaft and the head is 3 3/4” wide. It’s perfect for 5 gallon buckets and it will mix up to 10 gallons as long as you have a strong enough drill (usually a corded drill or a higher powered cordless drill)

Scales and Accessories

A scale is a must-have for mixing glazes. An accurate, durable scale is a great investment. My favorite is the Oxo 11 Pound Scale. To read about other scale options, the Studio Manager scale review can be found here.

The Oxo 11 Pound / 5 KG Scale is great for home or studio use.

The Oxo 11 Pound / 5 KG Scale is great for home or studio use.

The Oxo 11 Pound Scale is designed for kitchen use but it’s a just as useful in the studio. It runs on 4 AAA batteries, and is accurate to 1/8 ounce or 1 gram. A great feature is the pull-out, light up display that allows you to use the scale with larger bowls. The scale has four buttons: a lb/kg toggle, light switch, zero button, and power. The top stainless steel platform can also be removed for cleaning. This scale can accommodate up to 11 pounds or almost 5 kilograms at a time. It’s an incredible amount of features in a scale that typically costs about $50.

Ohaus Maxi-Scoop Bowl

The Ohaus Maxi-Scoop bowl.

The Ohaus Maxi-Scoop bowl.

The Ohaus Maxi-Scoop is my favorite bowl to use when weighing dry ingredients. Made of polypropylene, it is 10 inches wide, has a pouring spout, and is durable and easy to clean. It holds a lot of material, typically up to about 2500 grams, and the open, wider design makes it easier to use in my opinion. Of course, you can use any sort of bowl to measure dry ingredients, but this one just seems to be ideal for scales and it’s the one I reach for first when I’m mixing glaze.

Metal Scoops

metalscoop.jpg

A quality metal scoop makes working with dry materials so much easier. In a pinch, I’ve repurposed small yogurt containers as scoops, but a durable, long-lasting metal scoop is better. For large storage bins or bags, you might get a scoop for each material. Or if you have a collection of 2 to 4 different sizes, you can get through most glaze batches without contaminating between materials, and then wash the scoops after glazing. For really strong ingredients such as red iron oxide, I leave small scoops in each bin so I don’t have to clean the scoops each time I use them.

Wrap-Up

This post has listed my favorite tools and accessories for use when mixing glaze, including drills, immersion blenders, sieves and strainers, dust protection, mixer blades, and scales. It may seem like a lot of stuff, but each tool has it’s role to play in the glaze-mixing process. If you are new to mixing glaze, start with the basics such as a scale, dust-protection and maybe just a wooden spoon, and go from there. You can always add tools as needed.

What are your favorite tools to use when mixing glaze? Let us know in the comments.

The Best Scales for Ceramic Studios and Workshops

Updated and revised, June 14, 2021

The OXO 11 Pound Food Scale is the top pick for a studio scale. It is accurate, affordable, durable, and has a pull-out, light-up display. It’s shown here with the Ohaus Maxi-Scoop bowl and a metal scoop.

The OXO 11 Pound Food Scale is the top pick for a studio scale. It is accurate, affordable, durable, and has a pull-out, light-up display. It’s shown here with the Ohaus Maxi-Scoop bowl and a metal scoop.

A scale for a studio or workshop is a heavily-used tool that needs to be accurate, easy to use, and durable. These days, you can get a great scale without spending a lot of money. This post will cover affordable but durable scales that get the job done and hold up under the heavy use of an academic or community ceramic studio.

TOP PICK: OXO 11 Pound Food Scale

The OXO 11 Pound Scale, going strong after years of studio use.

The OXO 11 Pound Scale, going strong after years of studio use.

The OXO Good Grips 11 Pound Scale is the top pick for a scale in a ceramics or art studio. With accuracy to 1 gram, this scale has a large enough capacity for most glaze or plaster-mixing needs. It’s made for home kitchen use but is super tough and has thoughtful design features such as a pull-out, light-up display. It runs on 4 AAA batteries, and is accurate to 1/8 ounce or 1 gram. It is simply incredible that a scale under $50 is this accurate. For similar or more accurate scales (options like this reviewed below) you’ll easily pay $100 or more.

The pull-out, light-up display on the OXO 11 Pound Scale.

The pull-out, light-up display on the OXO 11 lb capacity scale (Shop at Amazon)

The scale has four buttons: lb/kg toggle, light switch, zero, and power. It’s simple and intuitive, and the pull-out display helps if you are using wide bowls. The top stainless steel platform can also be removed for cleaning.

This scale can accommodate up to 11 pounds or almost 5 kilograms at a time. The display will help you know when you’re reaching capacity by displaying more bars on the right-hand side. When mixing glaze, the 5,000 gram capacity is definitely enough. But if you work with larger amounts of material, a higher-capacity scale is reviewed below.

Prior to working with the OXO 11 Pound Scale, I only wanted to use more professional scales with 0.1 gram accuracy. But this is an affordable, durable, well built, and most importantly, accurate scale. The 1 gram accuracy is exact enough for most purposes, and it will survive many years of use in any studio. I liked this scale so much that I bought the smaller OXO 5 Pound Food Scale for use at home.

Table of Contents

  • Top Pick: OXO Good Grips 11 Pound Scale

  • Budget Pick: Accuteck All-In-One Scale

  • Upgrade pick: MyWeigh iBalance 5500

  • Heavy Duty Pick: MyWeigh HD-300 Shipping Scale

  • Manual Scale Pick: LEM Stainless Steel Scale

  • Other Scale Options

  • Scale Accessories

  • Summary

Budget Pick: Accuteck All-in-One Digital Scale

The Accuteck All-In-One 50lb Digital Scale (Shop at Amazon) is a great budget option. It can weigh up to 50lbs of material, is well-built, and is very affordable—usually priced under $20. I have been using one in a busy community ceramics studio for 3 years and it has held up under heavy use.

This scale runs on 3 AAA batteries or an optional 5V plug-in adapter. It is accurate to 0.2 ounce, or about 2 grams. It is definitely not as accurate as our top pick, but if you need something for the occasional glaze batch, it will be ok. It is also great to keep on the wedging table for measuring pieces of clay.

When I originally purchased this, I didn’t expect it to be so well built and have been extremely happy with the purchase. In a world full of low-quality generics and knock offs, I would definitely recommend this scale if you are on a budget. The only drawback is that it is only accurate to about 2 grams. This scale wouldn’t be very accurate if you were measuring small quantities of glaze materials.

Upgrade Pick: MyWeigh iBalance 5500

The MyWeigh iBalance 5500 scale is accurate to 0.1 grams and has a 5500 gram / 12 lb capacity.

The MyWeigh iBalance 5500 scale is accurate to 0.1 grams and has a 5500 gram / 12 lb capacity.

The MyWeigh iBalance 5500 (Shop at Amazon) is a great upgrade pick for a studio scale. It’s accurate to 0.1 grams while maintaining a large capacity of 5500 grams or about 12 pounds. It has a stainless steel top, optional AC power adapter, simple and intuitive buttons, and a 3 year warranty. The four feet can be independently leveled too.

It’s a workhorse for glaze mixing that allows you to do large batches, or fine tune a small amount of material to a high degree exactitude. You’ll pay more for this accuracy — around $150 at the time of this post — but if you need the range from a few grams to larger amounts, this scale will deliver. There are other models in the MyWeigh iBalance line too, ranging up to 11000 gram capacity.

Heavy Duty Pick: MyWeigh HD-300 Shipping Scale

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The MyWeigh HD-300 Heavy Duty Shipping Scale (shop at Amazon) is the top pick for a shipping scale, but it’s also accurate enough for large batches of plaster, concrete, or other studio materials. It can measure up to 300 pounds with an accuracy of 0.1 lbs or to within about 2 ounces. It has a steel top and a remote display on a six foot cord, so you can easily get the weight of even the largest package. It’s powered by 4 AA batteries or an optional AC power adapter. It also has a built-in USB port, if you want to set up communication with printers or other devices. Finally, it has adjustable feet and easy to clean surfaces. This is a great heavy duty scale that comes in around $130. There are plenty of cheaper shipping scales, but if you read online reviews closely, you’ll see that they fail or are inaccurate, while this scale is built too withstand the test of time.

Manual Scale Pick: LEM Stainless Steel Scale

The LEM Stainless Steel Scale.

The LEM Stainless Steel Scale.

The LEM Stainless Steel Scale is a great option for weighing wet clay, plaster, or as a shipping scale. It has a 10” x 8” steel platform, and can weigh up to 44 lbs / 20 kg with an accuracy of 2 ounces or around 50 grams. It’s not accurate enough for mixing glazes, but for just about everything else, this is a great option that is affordable, durable and doesn’t need any batteries or plugs. Sometimes it’s good to keep it simple and for $30, you can’t go wrong with this scale.

Other Scale Options

Rubbermaid Commercial 150lb Digital Scale

The Rubbermaid Commercial 150 Pound Scale is another option for a rugged scale that can measure packages, plaster, or any type of material.

It has a wide metal platform, and the display can be mounted on the wall or pulled to the side with a 9 foot cord. The scale has a capacity of 150 pounds or 68 kilograms, and runs on a 9V battery or option AC adapter.

The drawback of this scale is that it is only accurate to about 1/2 pound. Previous models of this scale were more accurate to around 2/10 of a pound, so it is disappointing that Rubbermaid has let the quality drop. There are also complaints online about this unit, specifically the controller, breaking after a few months of use. That hasn’t been my experience though, so I would still recommend this with the caveat that you treat the control / display panel carefully. It’s priced about the same as the MyWeigh shipping scale, or around $130.

The Ohaus CX1201 Scale, 1200 gram capacity with 0.1 gram accuracy.

The Ohaus CX1201 Scale, 1200 gram capacity with 0.1 gram accuracy.

Ohaus Digital Scale

Ohaus is one of the most trusted names in scales, and the the Ohaus Portable Balance CX1201 is accurate to 0.1 grams with a capacity of 1200 grams or about 2.6 pounds. It costs a bit over $100 and runs on 3 AA batteries or an optional plug.

I prefer the larger capacity of the MyWeigh 5500, but this scale has a balance of accuracy, cost, and quality that is hard to beat. If you regularly measure smaller batches of glaze and need 0.1 gram accuracy, this scale will deliver.

Triple Beam

The Ohaus Triple Pro Scale

The Ohaus Triple Pro Scale

“Triple-beam lyrical dream” as Biggie used to rap, these types of scales were the standard for drug dealers and glaze chemists alike. Now, almost everyone has switched to digital scales. I definitely have. But, if you want to go old school or want to keep it simple and not worry about batteries or breakdowns, a triple-beam scale is the way to go. They are extremely accurate, long-lasting, and durable. It just takes longer to get a measurement.

Ohaus makes a great scale, the Triple Pro Mechanical Triple Beam with a 610 to 2610 gram capacity that is accurate to 0.1 grams. The scale has a basic capacity of 610 grams, but you can add counterweights to increase the capacity to 2610 grams. If you want to invest in a long-term piece of equipment, this is the kind of tool you could pass down to your grandchildren.

Favorite Scale Accessories

The Ohaus Maxi-Scoop bowl for weighing dry materials.

The Ohaus Maxi-Scoop bowl for weighing dry materials.

Ohaus Maxi-Scoop Bowl

The Ohaus Maxi-Scoop is my favorite bowl to use when weighing dry ingredients. Made of polypropylene, it is 10 inches wide, has a pouring spout, and is durable and easy to clean. You can get quite a bit of dry material piled up in this bowl, and the open, wider design makes it easy to use. Of course, you can use any sort of bowl to measure dry ingredients, but this one just seems to be ideal for scales and it’s the one I reach for first when I’m mixing glazes.

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Metal Scoops

Metal scoops are the easiest way to pick up glaze materials, plaster, or any dry material. They are also long lasting and easy to clean. A variety of sizes works, or some people like to keep an individual scoop in each bucket of material.

Ohaus Footed Scoop Bowl

The Ohaus Footed Scoop Bowl.

The Ohaus Footed Scoop Bowl.

The Ohaus Footed Scoop is another great option for mixing dry materials. It doesn’t hold as much material as the Maxi-Scoop, but the design of this bowl is much easier to pour. There’s also a metal option in this design, which is super long lasting, but it’s very expensive.

Summary

This post has covered a variety of scale options suitable for a ceramics, sculpture, or art studio. Many of these will work at home too. My top pick is the OXO 11 Pound Scale for it’s combination of accuracy, durability, and price. But there are a variety of other options too, along with my favorite accessories for mixing glaze and other materials.

What scale do you use in your studio? Let us know in the comments.