Pottery Wheel Comparison Chart

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Please click here for the latest 2025 Pottery Wheel Comparison Chart

The Shimpo VL-Whisper, the top pick in our Pottery Wheel Buyer’s Guide.

Note: Updated prices and info as of October 2023

This chart includes every wheel made by dependable manufacturers, including Bailey, Brent, Lockerbie, Pacifica, Shimpo, Skutt Thomas Stuart, Soldner, and Speedball. The chart includes specifications, typical price ranges, and other information to help you make a decision when shopping for a wheel.

Click here for our complete 2023 Pottery Wheel Buyer’s Guide, including our top picks, tips on how to buy, and a complete description of each manufacturer.

Note: The chart below uses affiliate links with Dick Blick and Amazon. If you click a link and make a purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Bailey Pottery Wheels

Available at baileypottery.com

Model	Typical Price	Motor (HP)	Wheelhead Diameter	Bat Pin Diameter	Reversible	Dimensions	Weight	Speed (RPM)	Warranty	Capacity
ST	$1,351	1/4 HP	12"	10"	Yes, plug	22.5 x 25.5 x 21"	93 lbs	0-200	5/10 years	50 lbs
ST-X	$1,541	1/4 HP	13"	10"	Yes, switch	24.5 x 29 x 20.25"	103 lbs	0-200	10 years	50 lbs
ST-XL	$1,702	1/2 HP	13"	10"	Yes, switch	24.5 x 29 x 20.25"	123 lbs	0-200	10 years	100 lbs
PRO-50R	$1,499	1/4 HP	12"	10"	Yes, plug	24.25 x 29 x 20.25"	92 lbs	0-200	10 years	50 lbs
PRO-X	$1,581	1/4 HP	13"	10"	Yes, switch	24.5 x 29 x 20.25"	102 lbs	0-200	10 years	50 lbs
PRO-XL	$1,692	1/2 HP	13"	10"	Yes, switch	24.5 x 29 x 20.25"	116 lbs	0-200	10 years	100 lbs

Brent Pottery Wheels

Click links in the chart to shop at Blick.

Model	Typical Price	Motor (HP)	Wheelhead Diameter	Bat Pin Diameter	Reversible	Dimensions	Weight	Speed (RPM)	Warranty	Capacity
B	$1,898	1/2 HP	12"	10"	Yes, switch	21 x 28 x 21.5"	119 lbs	0-240	10 years	150 lbs
B Black	$1,938	1/2 HP	12"	10"	Yes, switch	21 x 28 x 21.5"	119 lbs	0-240	10 years	150 lbs
C	$1,983	3/4 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	21 x 28 x 21.5"	121 lbs	0-240	10 years	225 lbs
C Black	$2,023	3/4 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	21 x 28 x 21.5"	121 lbs	0-240	10 years	225 lbs
CXC	$2,064	1 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	21 x 28 x 21.5" H	129 lbs	0-240	10 years	300 lbs
CXC Black	$2,104	1 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	21 x 28 x 21.5" H	129 lbs	0-240	10 years	300 lbs
Model 16	$3,855	1/2 HP	12"	10"	Yes, switch	36 x 36 x 21-35" H	287 lbs	0-240	2 years	150 lbs

Lockerbie Pottery Wheels

Available at axner.com and other ceramic suppliers.

Model	Typical Price	Motor (HP)	Wheelhead Diameter	Bat Pin Diameter	Reversible	Dimensions	Weight	Speed (RPM)	Warranty	Capacity
Kickwheel	$1,575	N/A	13"	10"	N/A	42 x 36 x 30"	325 lbs	N/A	5 years	N/A
Electric	$1,881	1/3 HP	13"	10"	No	42 x 36 x 30"	365 lbs	0-157	5 years	50 lbs
Electric-Reversible	$2,024	1/3 HP	13"	10"	Yes	42 x 36 x 30"	365 lbs	0-157	5 years	50 lbs

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Pacifica Pottery Wheels

Click the links to shop at Blick.

Model	Typical Price	Motor (HP)	Wheelhead Diameter	Bat Pin Diameter	Reversible	Dimensions	Weight	Speed (RPM)	Warranty	Capacity
GT400	$1,260	1/4 HP	13"	10"	Yes	31 x 27 x 20"	92 lbs	0-260	5 years	80 lbs
GT800	$1,485	1/2 HP	13"	10"	Yes	31 x 27 x 20"	105 lbs	0-260	5 years	100 lbs

Shimpo Pottery Wheels

Click the links below to shop at Blick.

Model	Typical Price	Motor (HP)	Wheelhead Diameter	Bat Pin Diameter	Reversible	Dimensions	Weight	Speed (RPM)	Warranty	Capacity
Aspire table top	$569	1/3 HP 100w	7"	6"	No	14.5 x 20 x 9"	25 lbs	0-230 hand, 0-250 foot	5 years	20 lbs
VL-Lite	$858	1/2 HP 100w	12"	10"	Yes, switch	22 x 28 x 21"	85 lbs	0-250	5 years	25 lbs
RK-Whisper	$1,310	1/2 HP, 400w	12"	10"	Yes, switch	20 x 21 x 20"	118 lbs	0-250	5 years	100 lbs
VL-Whisper	$1,532	1/2 HP, 400w	14"	10"	Yes, switch	23.2 x 27.5 x 22.75"	122 lbs	0-250	5 years	100 lbs

Skutt Pottery Wheels

Click the links in the chart to shop at Blick.
*Note that Skutt does not provide RPMs or Centering Capacity.

Model	Typical Price	Motor (HP)	Wheelhead Diameter	Bat Pin Diameter	Reversible	Dimensions	Weight	Speed (RPM)	Warranty	Capacity
Prodigy	$1,320	1/3 HP	12"	10"	No	24 x 30 x 24"	94 lbs	-	10 years	-
Removable splash pans:
Legend	$1,849	1/3 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	24 x 30 x 24"	117 lbs	-	10 years	-
Legend	$1,980	1/2 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	24 x 30 x 24"	119 lbs	-	10 years	-
Legend	$2,100	1 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	24 x 30 x 24" H	128 lbs	-	10 years	-
Built-In Splash Pans:
Classic	$1,900	1/3 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	24 x 30 x 24"	127 lbs	-	10 years	-
Classic	$2,153	1/2 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	24 x 30 x 24"	128 lbs	-	10 years	-
Classic	$2,189	1 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	24 x 30 x 24"	140 lbs	-	10 years	-

Soldner Pottery Wheels

*Prices listed are as of 2022.

Model	Typical Price	Motor (HP)	Wheelhead Diameter	Bat Pin Diameter	Reversible	Dimensions	Weight	Speed (RPM)	Warranty	Capacity
S50	$1,409	1/6 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	24 x 24 x 19-25"	85 lbs	0-250	2 years	50 lbs
S100	$1,576	1/4 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	24 x 24 x 19-25"	95 lbs	0-250	2 years	100 lbs
P100	$1,891	1/4 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	29 x 38 x 22-28"	130 lbs	0-250	2 years	100 lbs
P200	$2,079	1/2 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	29 x 38 x 22-28"	145 lbs	0-250	2 years	200 lbs
P400	$2,438	3/4 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	29 x 38 x 22-28"	160 lbs	0-250	2 years	400 lbs

Speedball Pottery Wheels

Click the model name to shop at Blick.

Model	Typical Price	Motor (HP)	Wheelhead Diameter	Bat Pin Diameter	Reversible	Dimensions	Weight	Speed (RPM)	Warranty	Capacity
Artista table top	$549	1/3 HP	11"	10"	No	24 x 18 x 9"	26 lbs	0-220	2 years	25 lbs
Clay Boss	$1038	1/2 HP	14"	10"	Yes, plug	21 x 26 x 19.5"	83 lbs	0-240	10 years	100 lbs
Big Boss	$1,271	0.85 HP	14"	10"	Yes, plug	21 x 26 x 19.5"	89 lbs	0-250	10 years	150 lbs
Boss Elite SQ	$1,428	1 HP	14"	10"	Yes, plug	21 x 26 x 19.5"	96 lbs	0-240	5 years	175 lbs

Sources and Research

The information in the chart was compiled by visiting manufacturers’ websites, reviewing product manuals, and researching products on various retailers’ websites. Every effort has been made to provide accurate, up-to-date info. If you notice any errors, please contact us.

Click here for our complete 2023-24 Pottery Wheel Buyer’s Guide.

Or check out our 2023-24 Table Top Wheel Buyer’s Guide.

Other posts of interest:

Gift Guide For Potters and Ceramic Artists

Best Loop Tools for Trimming Pottery

For more info on Pottery Wheels and where this data was sourced from:

Bailey: baileypottery.com

Brent: amaco.com/t/equipment/brent/wheels

Lockerbie: www.lagunaclay.com/potterswheels

Pacifica: www.lagunaclay.com/potterswheels

Shimpo: Japan www.nidec-shimpotougei.jp/en/pe; North America: www1.ceramics.nidec-shimpo.com

Skutt Thomas Stuart: skutt.com/pottery-wheels

Soldner: bluebird-mfg.com

Speedball: speedballart.com

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Pottery Wheel Buyer's Guide — The Best Wheels For All Studios

A classroom set of our top pick, the Shimpo VL-Whisper pottery wheel. The latest model of the Whisper has a slightly different table top shape but same super-quiet motor.

Note: CLICK HERE to read our new and updated guide for 2023-2024

There are a number of great pottery wheels on the market for all sorts of budgets and skill levels. But it can be confusing to figure out which wheel is right for you. This guide is here to help you pick the size, style, and type of wheel that is best for your studio and budget.

TOP PICK: Our top pick for all studios is the Shimpo VL-Whisper. It’s a super-quiet workhorse with a 1/2 horse power motor that usually costs around $1,300-1,400. Shop at Blick

BUDGET PICK: For a budget / entry level wheel, we love the Speedball Clay Boss, which you can usually find for just over $700. It’s got a 1/2 HP belt-driven motor. Shop at Blick

PRO PICK: And for a professional pick, we love the Soldner P200 or any of the higher-end Skutt / Thomas Stuart Wheels, which typically cost $1,400 to $2,000. Shop at Blick

In addition to reviews and recommendations of top wheels, this guide will cover:

• What to look for when buying a wheel

• Tips on where and how to buy

• Provide a side-by-side comparison chart of just about every wheel on the market so that you can make the most informed decision.

Note on cheap generic wheels:
This guide only covers wheels from dependable manufacturers including Bailey, Brent, Lockerbie, Pacifica, Shimpo, Skutt, Soldner, and Speedball. There are numerous other generic wheels that are available online for $200 or less. These generics receive very mixed reviews, are small and have small wheelheads, have very weak motors, don’t have bat pins, and don’t hold up under regular use. You might try these, but that $200 would be better put towards any wheel listed below, which will last 10 to 20 years or longer when used properly.

For a complete review and guide, keep scrolling.

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Table of Contents

1. Top Pick: Shimpo VL-Whisper

2. Budget Pick: Speedball Clay Boss

3. Pro Pick: Soldner Wheels or Skutt Wheels

4. Other Great Wheels

5. Understanding Pottery Wheels

6. How To Shop For A Wheel

7. Pottery Wheel Comparison Charts

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Top Pick: Shimpo VL-Whisper

The Nidec-Shimpo VL-Whisper pottery wheel, our top pick for a wheel. It has a super-quiet motor, adjustable legs, and a lot of thoughtful features.

Our top pick for all types of studios and skill levels is the Nidec-Shimpo VL-Whisper pottery wheel. Introduced about 10 years ago, this has become one of the top-selling wheels mainly due to its innovative 1/2 horse power, direct-drive DC motor that uses magnets to drive the wheel. This system makes the VL-Whisper truly the most quiet wheel on the market. Almost every other wheel uses a belt-drive system that makes more noise and has more moving parts that can break down over time.

The Shimpo VL-Whisper with the legs removed, for use as a table top wheel if you prefer to stand while throwing.

Along with being super quiet, the VL-Whisper magnetic drive has instant torque and is powerful enough for most potters. The rest of the wheel is well designed with a three legs, sturdy plastic top, 2-part splash pan that surrounds a 14” wheelhead, a moveable floor pedal, and a switch to run the wheel clockwise or counterclockwise. The 1/2 horsepower 400 watt motor is rated to a centering capacity of 100 lbs and the wheel comes with a 5 year warranty.

The VL-Whisper has other thoughtful engineering touches, including adjustable, removable legs that allow for tabletop use or a variety of heights on the floor. The wheelhead also turns freely at 0 rpm, allowing for use as a banding wheel. The VL-Whisper weighs around 120 lbs and measures 23 1/8” x 27 1/2” and can range from 11” to 21” in height.

With all this great stuff there are basically no drawbacks, which is why it is our top pick. Some pro potters may want a more powerful motor, and some beginners may find the price tag prohibitive (typically $1400), but I can really say without a doubt that this is the best overall wheel on the market. What really sets it apart is the quiet motor, adjustable legs, 0 rpm banding wheel option, and how it is just a thoughtfully designed, sturdy machine.

This wheel is available at just about every ceramic supplier worldwide. There are often vendors on Amazon selling a package with shipping included, or the wheel is readily available at Dick Blick art stores in North America.

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Budget Pick: Speedball Clay Boss

The Speedball Clay Boss, our top pick for a budget wheel. It’s got a 1/2 horse power motor and lighter body construction that many prefer.

The Speedball Clay Boss is our top pick for an entry-level pottery wheel. It’s a great for students, beginners, but still works for pros who want a lightweight wheel. It’s got a 1/2 horse power motor, a belt-driven wheel, 14” wheelhead, and a standard triangular design that clocks in at just over 80 lbs, making it one of the lightest pottery wheels on the market with a motor of that size. Known for lightweight wheels with a devoted fan base, the Speedball wheels build on the tradition of Creative Industries, a ceramics company that Speedball acquired in 2009.

The Clay Boss measures 26” x 21” x 19.5” high, has a detached foot pedal, and is reversible by switching the direction of the plug, so it will work for throwing clockwise or counter clockwise. It also comes with a 10 year warranty. The Clay Boss can usually be found at just over $700, making it the most affordable wheel from a dependable manufacturer on the market, and if you need a more powerful motor, there are upgrades available within the Speedball line.

There aren’t any big downsides to this wheel, but there are trade offs. For example, it’s quite light for a wheel because it doesn’t have a beefy table or legs. I wouldn’t stand on top of this wheel, but it is easy to move. And it’s belt-driven, so it will be noisier than our top pick, the Shimpo VL-Whisper. But it’s still a great wheel that will get the job done. Many of the old Creative Industries wheels are still going strong after 20 or 30 years, and I would expect these Speedball wheels to have the same longevity.

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Pro Pick: Soldner Wheels or Skutt Wheels

The Soldner P-200, a 1/2 horse power pottery wheel. Soldner wheels are known for their ultra-responsive foot pedal and plywood table tops.

For the professional potter, the best wheels are made by Soldner Wheels or from the Skutt / Thomas Stuart Line. These wheels feature large, oversized motors and extra-responsive, upgraded foot pedals, combined with sturdy legs and tops. Do you need a wheel like this? If you are serious potter, spending a few hours a day on the wheel or more, the larger motors will really deliver for you and not overheat (The Shimpo VL-Whisper is great in this regard too). Many also prefer the super-sensitive foot pedals and various upgrades available in these wheels.

Soldner wheels are the only wheels on the market with wooden tops. Made by Bluebird Manufacturing in Fort Collins, Colorado, the finished, marine-grade plywood is attractive and super strong. And the Soldner wheels are known for their smooth, strong motors with a top-of-the-line foot pedal that will adjust to every touch you give. These wheels are a pleasure to use. For most, we would recommend the P200 model that has a half moon table and a 1/2 horse power motor.

The Skutt / Thomas Stuart Elite, a 1/2 horsepower pottery wheel with a built-in splash pan. Note the extra large motor on the Skutt wheels.

The Skutt / Thomas Stuart line has 8 different wheels. These wheels are distinguished by large splash pans, large motors, and really sturdy construction. Seven of the models are available with an optional “SSX” foot pedal upgrade, which gives you an ultra-responsive, smooth response that puts these in the same range as the Soldner wheels. The best options for most potters, in our opinion, are the two 1/2 horse power models: The Revolution comes with a removable splash pan while the Elite has basically the same features but with a built-in splash pan. And if you are considering the SSX foot pedal upgrade and optional leg extensions to convert these to a standing wheel, consider the Steven Hill option which includes these features.

Soldner and Skutt wheels are usually found at speciality ceramic suppliers.

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Other Great Wheels: Brent Wheels and Others

The Brent B, a 1/2 horse power pottery wheel that is one of the most popular wheels on the market.

In addition to the options above, there are other pottery wheel options to consider, particularly wheels from Brent, Bailey, and Pacifica. For many potters, their favorite wheels are made by Brent. Known for their distinctive yellow ochre plastic tops and splash pans, you have probably seen or used a Brent as they are arguably the best-selling wheels in North America. (This data isn’t public but Brent and Shimpo seem to be the two most common wheels).

As a point of comparison, the Brent B is closest to the other wheels we have recommended above. It has a 1/2 horsepower motor, can go forward and reverse, and has a 12 inch wheel head. When new, these wheels are very quiet even though they utilize a belt-driven system, and with a 10-year warranty, you can be assured that Brent wheels will last for decades.

While the Brent wheels are incredibly popular, they are not my top pick for two reasons: The Shimpo VL-Whisper is much quieter. And the Soldner and Skutt wheels come with added features, such as better foot pedals and oversized motors. Brent doesn’t have these upgrades, but if you go beyond the Brent B into the C, CXC, or EX model, you do get some of the most powerful motors on the market. If you need a 1 1/2 horse power motor, the EX is your only option on the market.

For a complete guide to Brent wheels, click here.

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Understanding Pottery Wheels, a Pottery Wheel Buying Guide

In this section, we’ll go through each part and feature to help you understand wheels and how to choose the best one for you.

Motor

The biggest difference between wheels, even within a manufacturer’s product line, is usually the motor. Ranging from 1/4 horsepower to 1 1/2 horsepower, most potters will find that a 1/2 HP motor is the sweet spot of plenty of power without paying extra. If you are able to test wheels in person, you will see the difference in size of motors too. Not all motors are created equally, even if they are rated to the same HP. In this case, a bigger motor both in size and HP is usually better as it will accommodate more use and and can better withstand overheating under heavy use. With that in mind, if you can afford it, go for the biggest motor you can afford to give yourself more longevity.

Centering Capacity

A similar consideration to the motor power, centering capacity is often mentioned with wheels. It’s a somewhat useful metric that is basically a stand-in for horsepower. Skutt, however, refuses to provide this centering capacity number, arguing that it is a useless metric. But since most manufacturers use it, we’ve kept it in our chart below. Centering capacity is related to both the power of the motor, the torque it gives at start up, and the sensitivity of the foot pedal. If it matters to you, and you have the money, you won’t be disappointed with a bigger motor with more centering capacity. Realistically, most potters aren’t centering more than 10 or 20 lbs on a wheel so wheels advertising 200 or 300 lb centering capacities are really indicating that they have an overbuilt motor that will be able to take a lot of use.

Table Top, Legs, Frame

The next biggest difference is the material and design of the table and legs. Most wheels have a sturdy plastic top, and metal legs. Some have beefier legs, metal tops, or in the case of Soldner wheels, a marine-grade plywood top. Manufacturers typically have one or maybe two table styles, and will build different features on top of these frames. These frame constructions will determine the dimensions and some of the weight of the wheel. When choosing a wheel, consider the size, weight, and type of frame and table top that will work for your studio.

Splash Pan

Another point of comparison is the splash pan. Typically a two-part plastic pan that clips around the wheelhead, splash pans are useful for collecting throwing water or trimming scraps. Some wheels, such as Baileys and Skutts, have large one-piece splash pans that cover the whole top of the frame. Some of these one-piece splash pans are removable, and others are built in and can be cleaned and emptied via a drain plug. As cleanup is a big part of throwing, choosing a splash pan that suits you can be important.

Weight / Dimensions

Most wheels are about the same size and shape, with some variation in Soldner and Lockerbie wheels. The weight is determined by the size of the motor and the frame construction. A lighter wheel, such as a Speedball, is easier to move while pro-type wheels, such as Skutt, have marketing pictures of potters standing on top of the wheel. How you are going to use a wheel and your studio space will really determine if you need a light or heavyweight wheel.

Wheelhead

Most wheels have a 12”, 13” or 14” wheelhead with bat pins spaced 10” a part. Some smaller wheels or table top wheels will have different styles. Measure a wheelhead that you like using to determine the size you like, although most wheels now have a 14” wheel. Another point of consideration is if the wheelhead can be removed or replaced. Typically, this is only possible in pro wheels, such as Skutt or Soldner wheels. For ongoing maintenance, most wheelhead ball bearing assemblies are completely sealed and not designed to be oiled or repacked with grease. If your wheelhead develops a grinding sound, you may have to replace it.

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Foot Pedal

A foot pedal may seem just like a simple speed control, but the pro-level Skutt and Soldner wheels use their ultra-responsive (and more expensive) pedals as a selling point. In addition to the upgraded pedal options, also consider if the foot pedal and on-board electronics are providing some kind of computer-controlled speed modulation to keep things even (such as Pacifica wheels), or just letting you control the speed with the pedal (such as Brent, Shimpo, Soldner, and Skutt wheels.) The more experienced you are, the less you’ll want the wheel making decisions for you.

One other point of consideration with foot pedals is whether it is fixed or not. Every model listed below has a moveable foot pedal except the Shimpo RK-Whisper, which has an attached pedal on the right side. A moveable foot pedal lets you to choose which side to place it, and allows you to raise the pedal on bricks if needed.

Speed

Many manufacturers provide a rotations per minute (RPM) figure in relation to motors, which we’ve included below. Once again, these give you a rough approximation of motor power and torque, but they are all within a range that is about the same, ranging from 0 to 240-260 rpm max. The Lockerbie motor has a much lower max rpm but it’s a super beefy 1/3 HP motor that trades a high speed for great torque.

Reversability

Most good wheels these days come with a convenient switch where you can reverse the direction of the motor, allowing you to throw clockwise or counter clockwise. Some lower-priced wheels have a reversible plug, where you have to manually switch the cord. Some wheels are not reversible at all.

Leg extenders

Some manufacturers make leg extenders, so that a wheel can be converted to a standing wheel. This style of throwing can be more comfortable for your lower back. Definitely consider this when choosing a wheel, or look at the models such as the Shimpo Whisper, which has removable legs so that it can be easily placed on a table.

Shipping and Assembly

Some wheels arrive completely assembled, others need some assembly such as attaching legs. They also vary on whether they ship via FedEx / UPS or by freight. Expect to pay extra for shipping and delivery, unless you are picking a wheel up in person. Also consider how you will get the wheel into your studio as they can be heavy. Some vendors will include free shipping so definitely compare prices with shipping included to find the best deal.

Warranty

Warranties on wheels range from 2 to 10 years. But every wheel listed below is a top-quality product that should last for decades. If you are careful and respectful with tools, I wouldn’t worry too much about a shorter warranty. But if you are buying for an educational or communal studio where wheels can really be abused, you might want to consider wheels with longer warranties.

In my experience, the main upkeep on wheels is keeping them clean and trying to occasionally add some oil to moving parts. Foot pedals can be adjusted, electronics such as switches can be replaced. The biggest concern would be a wheelhead bearing assembly getting repeatedly swamped with too much water in the splashpan. But if you are careful, a wheel may never need any major repairs.

Just please, don’t buy these generic $100 to $400 dollar wheels that have been popping up online…who knows if those will last one month, let alone a few years.

Price

All the factors above contribute to the price. The lowest price possible is often the driving force of any purchase, and if that is you, we recommend the Speedball wheels, which typically cost around $800. For this lower price you are getting a lighter, less beefy frame and most likely a noisier wheel but one that will still get the job done for you. Professional-grade wheels typically cost $1,300 to $1,500and up to $2,000 or more, depending on the options you select. If you are on the fence when choosing upgrades such as a bigger motor or a better foot pedal, consider how you will feel in 5 to 10 or 20 years. You won’t think about the extra few hundred dollars, you’ll be happy that you got the upgrades to make your wheel last a lifetime.

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Where to Shop and Buy Pottery Wheels

Before buying a wheel, think about what you have used and what features you need. If you currently have a favorite style or brand of wheel, you’ll probably be happy sticking with that style. For research, the best place to start is your local ceramic shop where you can hopefully “test drive” different models to see what feels good to you. Consider asking if they have floor models or special deals on wheels already in stock.

If you are shopping online, we have provided links to some wheels at Dick Blick (North America) and Amazon. Some ceramic suppliers advertise a price that includes shipping, while others add it on in your cart. So definitely shop around and see where you can find the best deals. If you order from online vendors, the wheel is most likely going to be shipped directly from the manufacturer anyway, so you should try to find the best deal.

Kiln Repair and Warranty

After buying a wheel, you will be dealing with the manufacturer if you need any repairs, although a relationship with a local ceramic shop is a great resource if you need help with repairs or adjustments. Manufacturers such as Skutt and Bailey are known for the great online and phone customer service. Other manufacturers, such as Brent, provide lots of support both in person and with repair videos on YouTube.

Most likely, nothing will go wrong with your wheel in the short term but you should expect to make adjustments to foot pedals. And if you are messy, or have an academic studio, expect students to jam clay into any open spot on the wheel, potentially damaging parts such as on/off switches or swamping the wheelhead with water, getting water into the bearing assembly. For most quality wheels, repair parts are readily available from ceramic suppliers or the manufacturer. The good news is that manufacturers are increasingly using sealed switches and other waterproof parts.

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Pottery Wheel Comparison Chart

This chart is in alphabetical order by manufacturer, including Bailey, Brent, Lockerbie, Pacifica, Shimpo, Skutt / Thomas Stuart, Soldner, and Speedball. These are all trustworthy brands and any of the wheels listed below will last a long time. We have done our best to compile a typical range of prices found online and in store, along with each wheel’s features, updated as of September 2022. There is also a description of what to expect from each manufacturer’s wheels.

The Bailey Pro-XL Pottery Wheel is our pick for the best Bailey wheel. It has a 1-piece splash pan and a 1/2 HP motor.

Bailey Pottery Wheels

Bailey Wheels are manufactured by the Bailey Pottery Corporation of Kingston, New York. Known for innovative and high quality slab rollers, kilns, extruders, and other equipment for ceramic studios, the Bailey wheels are characterized by a large, table-sized splash pan. There are two main models, the ST and the PRO model, which each come in three different options. The ST models have a 2-piece, removable splash pan while the PRO models have a 1-piece, counter-sized fixed splash plan with a plug and a drain tube.

Bailey sells optional leg extenders that work with all the models, which can extend the height from 29 to 37 inches.

All the models utilize a standard belt drive system, and have detached foot pedals.

For the best option, go with the ST-XL or PRO-XL, which both feature a 1/2 HP motor, 13” wheelhead, and a reversing switch.

Bailey Pottery Wheels

Available at baileypottery.com

Model	Typical Price	Motor (HP)	Wheelhead Diameter	Bat Pin Diameter	Reversible	Dimensions	Weight	Speed (RPM)	Warranty	Capacity
ST	$1,351	1/4 HP	12"	10"	Yes, plug	22.5 x 25.5 x 21"	93 lbs	0-200	5/10 years	50 lbs
ST-X	$1,541	1/4 HP	13"	10"	Yes, switch	24.5 x 29 x 20.25"	103 lbs	0-200	10 years	50 lbs
ST-XL	$1,702	1/2 HP	13"	10"	Yes, switch	24.5 x 29 x 20.25"	123 lbs	0-200	10 years	100 lbs
PRO-50R	$1,499	1/4 HP	12"	10"	Yes, plug	24.25 x 29 x 20.25"	92 lbs	0-200	10 years	50 lbs
PRO-X	$1,581	1/4 HP	13"	10"	Yes, switch	24.5 x 29 x 20.25"	102 lbs	0-200	10 years	50 lbs
PRO-XL	$1,692	1/2 HP	13"	10"	Yes, switch	24.5 x 29 x 20.25"	116 lbs	0-200	10 years	100 lbs

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Brent Pottery Wheels

The Brent B Pottery Wheel, a full-sized wheel with a 1/2 HP motor.

Brent wheels are the workhorses of the ceramics world. These are some of the most popular wheels and you will see these yellow ochre machines just about everywhere. Founded in 1967 by Robert Brent, the wheels have been manufactured by the American Art Clay Company (AMACO) since 1978. The wheels are sturdy, dependable, and easy to adjust and repair. Expect these machines to easily last 15 to 20 years or more even under the heaviest of uses.

The product line is straightforward with one style of frame that is yellow ocher and also available in black on the B and C models.

The B and C models are where most will find the sweet spot of power and price within the Brent product line. The difference in these models are the size of the motor (1/2 HP vs 3/4 HP) and the wheelhead diameter (12” vs 14”). The CXC and the EX model are basically the same as the C, but with bigger motors.

One note is the Brent centering capacity, as listed below. These are some really big numbers — Brent claims a 150 lb centering capacity for the Model B with a 1/2 HP motor. Most other manufacturers claim 50 lbs for a 1/2 HP motor. So these numbers may be a bit inflated but we’ve included Brent’s numbers below.

Brent wheels are available at ceramic suppliers or click the links in the chart to shop at Dick Blick. For a complete overview of the product line, click here.

Brent Pottery Wheels

Click links in the chart to shop at Dick Blick.

Model	Typical Price	Motor (HP)	Wheelhead Diameter	Bat Pin Diameter	Reversible	Dimensions	Weight	Speed (RPM)	Warranty	Capacity
B	$1,660	1/2 HP	12"	10"	Yes, switch	21 x 28 x 21.5"	119 lbs	0-240	10 years	150 lbs
B Black	$1,700	1/2 HP	12"	10"	Yes, switch	21 x 28 x 21.5"	119 lbs	0-240	10 years	150 lbs
C	$1,740	3/4 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	21 x 28 x 21.5"	121 lbs	0-240	10 years	225 lbs
C Black	$1,760	3/4 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	21 x 28 x 21.5"	121 lbs	0-240	10 years	225 lbs
CXC	$1,839	1 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	21 x 28 x 21.5" H	129 lbs	0-240	10 years	300 lbs
EX	$1,960	1 1/2 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	21 x 28 x 21.5" H	130 lbs	0-240	10 years	450 lbs
Model 16	$3,396	1/2 HP	12"	10"	Yes, switch	36 x 36 x 21-35" H	287 lbs	0-240	2 years	150 lbs

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Lockerbie Pottery Wheels

The Lockerbie Motorized Kick Wheel, a true workhorse of a wheel with possibly the biggest motor on the market.

Lockerbie Wheels are an interesting option manufactured by Laguna Clay in California. There are three models: a kickwheel (K), a motorized kickwheel (EK), and a reversible motorized kickwheel (EK-R). These are big, heavy wheels but if you want to switch between a kickwheel and a motor, this is the best option on the market. All models feature an adjustable wooden seat, a metal splash pan, and an all-metal frame with a concrete flywheel.

The flywheel results in a steady, even spin when used as a kickwheel. While centering and throwing can take a lot of work, trimming on a kickwheel is an absolute pleasure. The upgraded model with a motor is where this wheel really shines. It’s got a large, powerful motor that while only rated to 1/3 HP and a max of 157 rpm, has a lot of torque and can definitely handle more than the rated 50 lbs centering capacity. When you press the pedal, the motor engages the flywheel through a rubber wheel, or what Laguna calls “rubber friction drive.” This rubber wheel does wear out over time but is easily replaced. When you release the pedal, the kickwheel will continue to spin, until you stop it with a foot or let the flywheel come to a stop.

Lockerbie wheels have been around since the 1960s and in 2007, the company merged with Laguna Clay. The wheel style and design has been virtually unchanged for decades but it is a tough, well-designed beast of a wheel. It’s a great option for educational studios or if you want to have a kickwheel option. The simple, no frills design results in a relatively low price but you will need to pay for freight shipping.

Lockerbie Pottery Wheels

Available at axner.com and other ceramic suppliers.

Model	Typical Price	Motor (HP)	Wheelhead Diameter	Bat Pin Diameter	Reversible	Dimensions	Weight	Speed (RPM)	Warranty	Capacity
Kickwheel	$1,575	N/A	13"	10"	N/A	42 x 36 x 30"	325 lbs	N/A	5 years	N/A
Electric	$1,881	1/3 HP	13"	10"	No	42 x 36 x 30"	365 lbs	0-157	5 years	50 lbs
Electric-Reversible	$2,024	1/3 HP	13"	10"	Yes	42 x 36 x 30"	365 lbs	0-157	5 years	50 lbs

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Pacifica Pottery Wheels

The Pacifica GT400, one of two wheels from Pacifica with 1/4 HP motor and a 13” wheelhead.

Pacifica has been making wheels since 1972 and was purchased by Laguna Clay in 1992. There are currently two wheels in the product line, the GT400 and GT800. Both wheels are have belt driven, 13” wheelheads, optional leg extensions, and a water-resistant foot pedal. The difference is in the size of the motor, 1/4 HP for the GT400 and 1/2 HP for the GT800.

Pacifica differs from other manufacturers in claiming that, through it’s belt and electronic system, it’s 1/4 HP motor has an effective 1/2 HP, and the 1/2 HP motor has an effective 1 HP. Should these claims be believed? It’s hard to know. What can be said is that these wheels have on-board systems that attempt to modulate the wheel speed and torque to provide even power. In my opinion, the more experienced you are the less you will want these electronic modifications deciding for you.

Pacifica wheels do have some of the highest RPMs on the market, topping out at 260 rpms, which is slightly higher than most wheels. Expect these wheels to have a lot of torque. In addition, these wheels are affordable and are a great option for students, educational studios, or serious hobbyists.

Pacifica Wheels are available at ceramic suppliers or click the links in the chart to shop at Dick Blick.

Pacifica Pottery Wheels

Click the links to shop at Dick Blick.

Model	Typical Price	Motor (HP)	Wheelhead Diameter	Bat Pin Diameter	Reversible	Dimensions	Weight	Speed (RPM)	Warranty	Capacity
GT400	$1,260	1/4 HP	13"	10"	Yes	31 x 27 x 20"	92 lbs	0-260	5 years	80 lbs
GT800	$1,485	1/2 HP	13"	10"	Yes	31 x 27 x 20"	105 lbs	0-260	5 years	100 lbs

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Shimpo Wheels

The Shimpo VL-Whisper, a 1/2 HP wheel with the quietist motor on the market and a 14” wheelhead.

Shimpo has a straightforward line of three different full-sized wheels and a table top wheel. Founded in Tokyo, Japan in 1952, Shimpo wheels are distributed world wide. North American operations opened in Chicago, Illinois in 1974 as the Nidec-Shimpo Corporation.

Shimpo’s top-of-the-line VL-Whisper (VL stands for Velocity) is our favorite pottery wheel due to its innovative and quiet magnetic direct drive 1/2 HP 400 watt motor. The wheel is reversible, has a 14” wheelhead, and a detached foot pedal. The wheelhead on the VL-Whisper and RK-Whisper models also turns freely at 0 rpm, for use as a banding wheel.

The classic Shimpo RK-Whisper has been updated to feature the same super-quiet magnetic motor as the VL-Whisper, but with a 12” wheelhead and fixed foot pedal.

The classic Shimpo RK model now has this same super quiet 1/2 HP 400 watt magnetic Whisper motor, but with a 12” wheel head. Most importantly, this model has a fixed foot pedal on the right side and hand lever. Many love this fixed foot pedal but definitely try this out before buying.

Rounding out the Shimpo product line, the VL-Lite model is a strong competitor for Speedball and other budget models. It features a 1/2 HP 100 watt belt-driven motor, 14” wheelhead and detached foot pedal.

Note that the info below includes both the horse power and wattage for the motor. Not every manufacturer provides the wattage info, but in this case it helps distinguish between the two motors with the VL-Lite having a lower wattage and less powerful motor.

Shimpo Wheels are available at ceramic suppliers, Amazon, or click the links in the chart to check prices at Dick Blick.

Shimpo Pottery Wheels

Click the links below to shop at Dick Blick.

Model	Typical Price	Motor (HP)	Wheelhead Diameter	Bat Pin Diameter	Reversible	Dimensions	Weight	Speed (RPM)	Warranty	Capacity
Aspire table top	$509	1/3 HP 100w	7"	6"	No	14.5 x 20 x 9"	25 lbs	0-230 hand, 0-250 foot	5 years	20 lbs
VL-Lite	$793	1/2 HP 100w	12"	10"	Yes, switch	22 x 28 x 21"	85 lbs	0-250	5 years	25 lbs
RK-Whisper	$1,208	1/2 HP, 400w	12"	10"	Yes, switch	20 x 21 x 20"	118 lbs	0-250	5 years	100 lbs
VL-Whisper	$1,399	1/2 HP, 400w	14"	10"	Yes, switch	23.2 x 27.5 x 22.75"	122 lbs	0-250	5 years	100 lbs

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Skutt Thomas Stuart Pottery Wheels

An “exploded” view of the Skutt Premier 1 HP wheel, which features a removable wheel head and removable one-piece splash pan on top of an all-metal base.

Skutt is well known as a manufacturer of electric kilns, but they acquired Thomas Stuart Wheels in 2008 and have maintained and improved the already sterling reputation of the wheels, which are beloved by all types of potters.

The Skutt Thomas Stuart line of wheels has eight wheels that fall in to three categories

• The entry-level Prodigy wheel

• Removable one-piece splash pan

• Built-in splash pan that has a plug and drain tube for cleaning

The Skutt Steven Hill Signature Wheel, which has a 1/2 HP motor, a built-in one-piece splash pan, removable wheelhead, SSX foot pedal upgrade, and leg extensions.

For all the wheels except the Prodigy, the wheelhead is removed for cleaning with a simple twist and turn. The removable splash pan can then be taken off for cleaning. Skutt’s target market these wheels (Prodigy, Legend, Revolution, and Premier) are students, educational studios, and hobbyists. The built-in-splash pan options (Classic, Elite, Professional, and Steven Hill) are aimed at professional potters. But if you review the chart below, you can see that the wheels match up almost 1 to 1, so make your choice based on the horse power, wheelhead size, and splash pan option.

If you read through Skutt’s information, they claim to have the thickest wheelheads, beefiest frames, and oversized motors that can go all day without overheating. Skutt also doesn’t make claims on the centering capacity of their models, arguing that this commonly-used metric is almost meaningless. We agree that it’s just a stand-in for horsepower, so you can judge accordingly by reviewing the chart below.

For most potters, the 1/2 HP options (Revolution, Elite, or Steven Hill) will be plenty powerful. The Skutt Thomas Stuart wheels also have an optional SSX foot pedal upgrade. If you are considering one of these wheels, strongly consider adding that upgrade. If you are going for a premier wheel, you definitely want to get the best options available. Note that the Steven Hill model already includes the SSX foot pedal and leg extensions.

Finally there are also optional leg extensions that allow these wheels to be converted to standing options. These are awesome wheels that would work for just about everyone. They do come at a premium price, but the features and quality deliver and Skutt is well known for its customer service and commitment to its products.

Skutt Thomas Stuart Wheels are available at ceramic suppliers or click the links in the chart for models available at Dick Blick.

Skutt Thomas Stuart Pottery Wheels

Click the links in the chart to shop at Dick Blick, or visit skutt.com.
*Note that Skutt does not provide RPMs or Centering Capacity.

Model	Typical Price	Motor (HP)	Wheelhead Diameter	Bat Pin Diameter	Reversible	Dimensions	Weight	Speed (RPM)	Warranty	Capacity
Prodigy	$1,299	1/3 HP	12"	10"	No	24 x 30 x 24"	94 lbs	-	5 years	-
Removable splash pans:
Legend	$1,749	1/3 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	24 x 30 x 24"	117 lbs	-	5 years	-
Revolution	$1,799	1/2 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	24 x 30 x 24"	119 lbs	-	5 years	-
Premier	$1,969	1 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	24 x 30 x 24" H	128 lbs	-	5 years	-
Built-In Splash Pans:
Classic	$1,639	1/3 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	24 x 30 x 24"	127 lbs	-	5 years	-
Elite	$1,739	1/2 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	24 x 30 x 24"	128 lbs	-	5 years	-
Professional	$1,929	1 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	24 x 30 x 24"	140 lbs	-	5 years	-
Steven Hill	$2,029	1/2 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	24 x 30 x 24"	144 lbs	-	5 years	-

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Soldner Wheels

The Soldner P series features a half-moon shaped table with 1/4 HP, 1/2 HP, or 3/4 HP motor options.

Paul Soldner was one of the original innovators of motorized pottery wheels and founded Soldner Wheels in 1955. For decades, they have been manufactured by Bluebird Manufacturing of Fort Collins, Colorado. The wheels are known for their ability to handle large amounts of clay, ultra-smooth, proprietary foot pedal, and distinctive tops made from polyurethane coated marine-grade plywood.

The Soldner S series has a studio-sized wheel head in 1/6 HP or 1/4 HP motor options.

The wheels come with optional splash pans, or the two-piece Brent splash pans will fit every model. The wheels also feature adjustable legs, which can accommodate a variety of heights for seated pottery. The S-series wheels range from 19” to 25” in height, and the P series range from 22” to 28” high.

Soldner wheels are less common but they have a devoted fan base. They are an absolute pleasure to use, with the foot pedal delivering even, steady power. And the plywood table top is distinctive and very pleasant in the studio environment, as well as being super-tough.

Of the models, the 1/2 horse power, half-moon shaped P-200 is our favorite.

Soldner Wheels are available at speciality ceramic suppliers.

Soldner Pottery Wheels

Soldner Wheels are available at most ceramic suppliers.

Model	Typical Price	Motor (HP)	Wheelhead Diameter	Bat Pin Diameter	Reversible	Dimensions	Weight	Speed (RPM)	Warranty	Capacity
S50	$1,409	1/6 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	24 x 24 x 19-25"	85 lbs	0-250	2 years	50 lbs
S100	$1,576	1/4 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	24 x 24 x 19-25"	95 lbs	0-250	2 years	100 lbs
P100	$1,891	1/4 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	29 x 38 x 22-28"	130 lbs	0-250	2 years	100 lbs
P200	$2,079	1/2 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	29 x 38 x 22-28"	145 lbs	0-250	2 years	200 lbs
P400	$2,438	1/4 HP	14"	10"	Yes, switch	29 x 38 x 22-28"	160 lbs	0-250	2 years	400 lbs

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Speedball Pottery Wheels

The Speedball Clay Boss, a 1/2 HP pottery wheel with a 14” wheelhead. Our top pick for a budget wheel.

Speedball Pottery Wheels are known for being lighter-weight wheels that still deliver a professional quality motor. Speedball started making wheels in 2009 when they acquired Creative Industries of Cajon, California, which began making wheels in 1971. Many of those Creative Industries wheels are going strong today, although Speedball has changed the table shape and upgraded the line with newer features.

There are three regular-sized wheels in the Speedball product line:

The Clay Boss is our top pick for an affordable, entry-level wheel. It features a 1/2 HP belt-drive motor, a 14” wheel head, reversible motor by switching the direction of the plug, and can handle 100 lbs of clay. Building on the Clay Boss, the Big Boss and Boss Elite have virtually similar frames and options, but with bigger motors and larger centering capacity.

The Speedball wheels are a great option if price and weight are concerns. There is a trade off with a lighter-weight frame but that also allows you to easily move the wheels around as needed.

Speedball Wheels are available at ceramic suppliers or click the links in the chart to shop at Dick Blick.

Speedball Pottery Wheels

Click the model name to shop at Dick Blick.

Model	Typical Price	Motor (HP)	Wheelhead Diameter	Bat Pin Diameter	Reversible	Dimensions	Weight	Speed (RPM)	Warranty	Capacity
Artista table top	$520	1/3 HP	11"	10"	No	24 x 18 x 9"	26 lbs	0-220	2 years	25 lbs
Clay Boss	$989	1/2 HP	14"	10"	Yes, plug	21 x 26 x 19.5"	83 lbs	0-240	10 years	100 lbs
Big Boss	$1,241	0.85 HP	14"	10"	Yes, plug	21 x 26 x 19.5"	89 lbs	0-250	10 years	150 lbs
Boss Elite SQ	$1,398	1 HP	14"	10"	Yes, plug	21 x 26 x 19.5"	96 lbs	0-240	5 years	175 lbs

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The Best Banding Wheel for Pottery and Ceramics

This post is now out of date and will be archived soon.

Please click here to read the NEW and UPDATED Best Banding Wheel Post.

The Nidec Shimpo 9 1/2” wide banding wheel. Get it at Blick.

Note: Updated and edited October 2022

A banding wheel is a great tool for handbuilding, decorating, and carving. Potters and sculptors definitely needs one or more of these in the studio.

This post will cover quality banding wheels that can handle the weight of clay and be cleaned. You don’t want to mess with cheap plastic options, or lazy susans that aren’t designed to get dirty and be cleaned again.

Top Pick: Nidec Shimpo Banding Wheels

The complete line of Shimpo Banding Wheels.

Nidec Shimpo banding wheels are made of cast iron and painted with rust-resisted blue paint and are heavy, durable and will last a lifetime. They have sealed ball bearings, a one-piece design that will not come apart when picked up, and the weight of the cast iron results in a smooth, even spin. These banding wheels are a pleasure to use whether you are coil building, painting, carving, or sculpting.

Shimpo banding wheels come in five sizes ranging from 7” to 11 3/4” wide. The three smaller wheels are all 2 1/4” tall, while the two taller sizes are 4 3/4” tall and 7 1/2” tall. My preference is for the shorter, lower-profile banding wheels but a pedestal-style banding wheel may work for your studio. Some may find these banding wheels to be on the heavy side, but the weight works to your advantage to create a steady, even, long-lasting spin.

Shopping tip: These banding wheels tend to be cheaper at Blick than Amazon.

The Shimpo 25L Banding Wheel is 9 7/8” x 2 1/4”

Shimpo Banding Wheel Specs:
Model, diameter, height, and weight.

18L 7” x 2 1/4”, 6.5 lbs, $64-$79 (Shop 7” at Amazon)

22L 8 3/4” x 2 1/4”, 13 lbs, $77-$90

25L 9 1/2” x 2 1/4”, 15 lbs, $89-$120 (Shop at Amazon)

25H 9 7/8” x 7 1/2”, 19 lbs, $117-$132 (Shop at Amazon)

30M 11 3/4” x 4 3/4”, 28 lbs, $138-160 (Shop at Amazon)

More pics of the Nidec Shimpo banding wheel

Top view

Bottom view

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Table of Contents

1. Top Pick: Shimpo Banding Wheels

2. Budget Pick: CSI Banding Wheels

3. Great option: Amaco Banding Wheels

4. Other Banding Wheels

5. Summary

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Budget Pick: CSI Banding Wheels

CSI Banding Wheels come in sizes ranging from 8” to 16” in diameter.

CSI Banding Wheels are heavy-duty, economical banding wheels made from two Formica-covered particle boards with stainless steel ball bearings. They are 2 inches tall and range from 8 to 16” in diameter. These banding wheels are portable and stackable, are lighter than cast-iron options such as the Shimpo. They have decent turning capacity but they don’t turn as readily and easily as the Shimpo banding wheels.

For heavy sculptures or vessels these are great options. The 8” and 10” wheels have a 200 lb capacity, the 12” is rated to 300 lbs, and the 14” and 16” are rated to an 800 lb capacity.

The CSI banding wheels range in price from around $29 to about $47. That’s an incredibly great deal for a heavy-duty banding wheel, making this a great option for educational studios, beginners, or those more focused on sculpture and handbuilding rather than spinning decoration.

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Great option: Amaco #5 Banding Wheel

The Amaco #5 Banding Wheel is a 7” wide aluminum banding wheel that sits on a pedestal stand. Along with the Shimpo and CSI banding wheels, it’s quite common to see this in many ceramic studios. The smaller size, lighter weight, and pedestal stand makes it popular for decorating, carving, scraffitto work, and painting. It is not designed for heavy weight, but it is sturdy.

The drawbacks with this stand is that it is in two pieces and will separate if picked up by the top piece. There are also a variety of mixed reviews online, mentioning poor construction quality. AMACO may be having production issues with this unit, but in my experience, it’s a quality turntable that is great for small decorative tasks.

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Other Banding Wheels options

Plastic Banding Wheels

To be completely honest, I feel that plastic banding wheels are not worth buying. They can’t really be used for painting or banding, as the light weight doesn’t result in any lasting spin. They are also prone to breaking. You’ll be better off spending a bit more to get a CSI wheel.

The only reason I can see to get a plastic banding wheel is for working with young children. They are lightweight and stackable (but not robust…treat them carefully!) Or the other reason if you just need a lightweight turntable for detail work such as carving or fine detail sculpting.

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Metal Banding Wheels

These generic metal banding wheels, available under a variety of names online such as Falling In Art or US Art Supply, are highly rated and run about half the price of the Shimpo banding wheels. Available in 7” and 12” diameter, with a 4 inch pedestal, and a weight of about 10 lbs, these wheels have a set screw to hold the top and bottom pieces together. They are not quite as heavy as the Shimpo, but much heavier than other options such as the CSI Turntables or plastic wheels.

These wheels have numerous positive online reviews and are overall highly rated, but there are also some very negative reviews.

7” banding wheel is generally $29 to $39, while the 12” banding wheel is $39 to $49.

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Jack Richeson Mobile Sculpture Stand and Turntable

A mobile sculpture stand gives you the freedom to work on pottery and sculptures from all sides, and roll your work station out of the way if needed. This can be a great option for figurative sculpture, or if you want to create an additional workspace without adding another table. To work on this stand comfortably, you’ll need a tall stool or work standing up. The center shaft is adjustable for a working height of 39.5 to 44 inches. The wooden work surface is 12 inches square, and the base is 29 inches square with 4 locking caster wheels. It’s a great stand for working on sculptures, pottery, or as a display stand. It retails for $208.

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Summary

This post has covered a variety of banding wheels, turntables, and sculpture stands. In general, the best option is the heavy-duty cast iron Shimpo banding wheels, especially if you need to get a smooth, steady spin for painting pottery. If you are working with heavy sculptures, the CSI Turntables are a sturdy, economical option. And there are other cheaper and lighter options.

What banding wheels do you use? Let us know in the comments.

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The Best HEPA Vacuum for Potters, Sculptors, and Woodworkers

If you work with anything that creates dust, such as clay, wood, or plaster, you need a high quality HEPA vacuum. In our opinion, the Oneida Air Systems Dust Cobra is the best HEPA vacuum for medium to large studios and the Nilfisk Aero 21 HEPA Vacuum is the best option for personal studios.

Both of these machines meet or exceed HEPA standards (high-efficiency particulate air) for containing particulates such as silica dust, both from the machine exhaust and other areas on the unit. You’ll pay extra for this full-unit HEPA quality but it is worth it. Inferior vacuums often have a slapped-on HEPA filter but will leak in other parts of the vacuum, potentially creating worse air quality in your workspace. You definitely don’t want to play around with your lung health, so a high-quality vacuum should be one of the tools in your cleaning arsenal.

In addition to the Dust Cobra and Aero 21, this post will cover a few high-quality vacuums that will work for a variety of studio and workshop situations. Expect to spend $300 to $1500 or more to get the right system. This is a big outlay, but your health is worth it. And in the long run, these well-built vacuums will last for decades if treated with care, and your only ongoing cost will be replacement filters and bags. After the vacuum reviews, this post also will cover some relevant safety issue and cleaning suggestions to create the best, cleanest, and healthiest workspace.

Top Pick for Larger Studios: Oneida Air Systems Dust Cobra
An industrial vacuum, the Dust Cobra is designed to meet all OSHA HEPA requirements, is self-cleaning, and was designed with ceramic studios, wood shops, and light industrial applications in mind. It’s not cheap, generally around $1500 or more, but the unit was designed with ease of use and utilizes off-the-shelf HEPA filters, making ongoing costs and maintenance quite affordable.

Top Pick for Personal Studios: Nilfisk Aero 21 HEPA Vacuum
An upgraded version of a standard plastic shop vac, the HEPA version of this vacuum meets all the OSHA standards for silica dust extraction in a well-engineered vacuum that you can usually find for just over $300.

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Table of Contents

1. Top Pick for Larger Studios: Oneida Air Systems Dust Cobra system

2. Top Pick for Personal Studios: Nilfisk Alto Aero 21 HEPA vacuum

3. Upgrade Pick: Festool CT 26 E Dust Collector

4. Classic Pick: Nilfisk GM-80 HEPA Vacuum

5. Further Info: Safety Considerations and Cleaning Recommendations

6. Summary

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Top Pick for Larger Studios: Oneida Air Systems Dust Cobra

The Oneida Air Systems Dust Cobra is the best vacuum on the market for ceramic studios, wood shops, and other art studios. Designed in conjunction with Clayscapes Pottery of Syracuse, New York, it’s a high quality unit that will work for the avid hobbyist, educational studio, or small production facility. This unit will filter 99.97% of particles down to 0.3 microns.

The Dust Cobra is a lot bigger than your average vacuum or shop vac, but it’s on the smaller side for an industrial-quality vacuum. It would fit happily in the corner of a basement woodshop, or could be deployed at a larger academic studio or production facility. The vacuum sits on an airtight, metal drum that can be lined for easy disposal, and the drum is available in a 17 or 35 gallon capacity. The standard set-up comes with a high-quality dolly, but it can be used as a stationary tool too.

The Dust Cobra uses a rotating gravity funnel that Oneida calls “cyclonic action” to pre-filter the incoming dust and dirt and has a built-in filter cleaning system that can be deployed to prevent clogging and loss of suction. The standard kit comes with a 25-foot flexible hose that is designed to connect to tools such as a chop saw or miter saw, or it can be used as a standard floor vacuum.

One of the best features is that this vacuum uses an off-the-shelf Craftsman Gore HEPA filter, which is available for under $50 online or at hardware stores. Most other companies use expensive proprietary HEPA filters that can cost $150 each or more. Although a fully equipped Dust Cobra with the drum, wheeled dolly, and 25 foot hose starts around $1500, the ongoing operating costs of this unit is quite affordable. All that is needed is replacement filters and plastic drum liners.

To conclude, this is a durable, functional, well-thought-out unit with a target market of ceramic studios, shops using small power tools, wood shops, and educational studios.

The Oneida Air Systems Dust Cobra.

For more info on the Dust Cobra, check out the manufacturer’s page or watch this short promotional video below:

Check out The Dust Cobra made by Oneida Air for ceramic studios!

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Top Pick for Personal Studios: The Nilfisk Aero 21 HEPA Vacuum

The Nilfisk Aero 21, a small but powerful wet/dry vacuum that can be ordered with a HEPA filter.

The Nilfisk Aero 21 HEPA Wet/Dry Vacuum is a turbocharged little shop vac that can do a lot. It’s got great suction wet or dry, and with the HEPA option, this unit will filter 99.97% of dust down to 0.3 microns, It also has a built-in filter cleaning system to extend filter life and prevent loss of suction.

This unit has a 5-gallon (20 liter) plastic drum canister and an 11.5 foot foot hose. The vacuum kit includes an aluminum extension tube, along with floor, crevice, and universal nozzles. The unit is 20 inches tall, 15 inches in diameter, and has four wheels including two swiveling front casters.

Built with Nilfisk’s quality German engineering, this is one of the smallest and most affordable vacuums that the company makes. This is not an industrial machine, but for a personal studio or job site this is a great option that usually costs just over $300 with the HEPA filter.

Nilfisk makes all sorts of vacuums, ranging from shop vacs to industrial-level systems. There are variations in size, suction, and other features, but the HEPA option on their vacuums maintains the filtration level of 99.97% down to 0.3 microns or higher. When ordering, make sure to select the HEPA option so that you get the proper filters needed for silica and other fine particles. You can also be assured that the machine is engineered so that there are no leaky areas for non-filtered air and dust to escape.

If you like the Aero 21 but need a larger vacuum, consider these options from Nilfisk:

Nilfisk Aero 26 HEPA: A larger version of Aero 21

Nilfisk Alto Attix 33 HEPA: Increased power and suction with adjustable suction control

There are a lot of shop vacs on the market, but Nilfisk has done a great job of making a relatively affordable wet/dry vacuum that has an extremely high HEPA filtration rate. If you are working with clay, wood, or plaster, this is probably the smallest and most affordable vacuum that maintains top quality levels of small particle filtration.

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Other Options

In addition to these top picks, there are a number of great HEPA vacuums on the market. For dust collectors, we are not fans of the brands typically found at big box stores, and instead have found speciality vacuum manufactures to offer the best in quality and functionality. With any shop vac advertising itself as a HEPA model, you’ll want to make sure all points on the vacuum are tightly sealed and that the filter is rated to at least 99.9% filtration down to 0.3 micron particle size.

Upgrade Pick: Festool CT 26 E HEPA Dust Extractor

The Festool 26 CT E Dust Extractor. Built with hose and cord storage.

Festool is a German manufacturer of high-quality power tools that is especially popular with woodworkers, and the company’s line of HEPA dust extractors is one of the best designed on the market. These vacuums would be an upgrade pick from the Nilfisk vacuums, based on both price and the standard options such as automatic tool start plugs and adjustable suction.

The Festool CT 26 E HEPA Dust Extractor is the company’s most popular vacuum with a collection size of 26 liters or about 6.5 gallons, although the line includes sizes ranging from 15 to 48 liters.

The CT 26 E, like all Festool vacuums, has thoughtful features such as built-in cord and hose storage, and easy to clean filters, all in a small unit with a low center of gravity. It comes with a 11 1/2 foot long flexible hose, with a collection capacity of 26 liters or about 6.5 gallons.

The entire line is certified to meet or exceed OSHA standards, meaning that it filters 99.7% of particles down to 0.3 microns. But Festool has taken a further step to get its units independently certified to make sure that there is no leakage anywhere in the unit. This full-unit certification really gives you the peace of mind that you are not creating any hazardous air, and it puts Festool a step above the competition. Many shop vacs and dust extractors are listed as HEPA certified, but only the exhaust air is being filtered. If there is leakage anywhere else in the unit (usually where the motor section is connected to the collection bin) that can defeat the whole purpose of a HEPA vacuum. With Festool, you know the full unit is certified.

If you are using this with small power tools, most Festool vacuums (including the CT 26 E) have a great feature: the tool-triggered auto-on function. Simply plug your tool into this Festool unit, and the dust collector will turn on and off when you engage the tool. It’s ingenious.

These features and certifications do come at a premium: the Festool CT 26 E costs around $740.. This vacuum is a step up from the Nilfisk in cost. With that you get the same level of HEPA cleaning but with extra features such as cord storage and the tool-triggered auto on. For many, Festool is the brand they turn to first and if you want top quality and safety assurance, it’s a great option for personal studios and job sites.

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Classic Pick: Nilfisk GM-80 HEPA Vacuum

The Nilfisk GM-80. The hose parts and attachments are interchangeable, depending on your needs.

The Nilfisk GM-80 is a classic canister-style vacuum that is used and loved by many potters, sculptors, and artists. This model has been on the market for decades, and replacement parts are readily available online or at speciality vacuum stores. Within the Nilfisk product line, it’s in between the plastic-body Aero or Attix models and the high end industrial-grade machines. Consider it sort of a light-industrial option.

The GM-80 costs around $1,300 or more, and with that you get an all-metal body and a filtration level of 99.97% down to 0.3 microns. For extra filtration, there is a stepped-up Museum version with a variable speed control and the option for an ULPA Filter (Ultra-Low Particulate Air) which filters 99.999% of particles down to 0.12 microns. Either way, any Nilfisk vacuum with a HEPA or ULPA filter will return extremely clean exhaust air to your workspace with no leakage from the unit.

For HEPA filtering, the GM-80 utilizes four levels of proprietary Nilfisk parts: a paper dust bag, a thick cotton main filter, an optional motor dust filter, and a HEPA exhaust filter. These proprietary parts are not cheap to replace. The paper dust bag ($25 for a 5 pack) captures most of the dust, and the cotton main filter ($100) gets just about everything else. Unfortunately, this cotton filter and the GM-80 do not self clean, and the cotton filter is not designed to be washed. You could take it outdoors to tap off some of the accumulated dust, but this is a messy situation where you’ll want to have a dust mask on. The good news is that almost no dust gets to the HEPA filter, which costs $150-$200 to replace. The HEPA filter is rated for 1000 hours of use. If you are vacuuming in 10 or 15 minute bursts, it will take years before you’ll need a replacement HEPA filter.

There are a few tradeoffs with this device. It is not built with cord or hose storage, so these have to be wrapped around the device. For rolling, only one of the three wheels has a full 360 rotation, so it isn’t the easiest to move. It also uses expensive, proprietary filters.

The GM-80 is a trusted, well-rated vacuum that many have used to safely remove silica dust and other fine particles for years. If you are looking for a small vacuum and want a really high level of dust removal, this is a classic option that has worked for many artists for decades.

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Further info:

OSHA Standards for Silica Dust

In 2016, the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) in the United States introduced heightened standards for silica dust, and manufacturers have responded with high-quality vacuums that are HEPA certified and include improvements such as self-cleaning filters. In practice, this means that a HEPA certified vacuum or dust collector must filter at least 99.97% of particulates down to 0.3 microns. Keep in mind though, that while many vacuums will filter the exhaust air through a HEPA filter, not all units are fully sealed and can be truly safe if you are working with fine particulates such as silica dust.

Click here for the OSHA Fact sheet on the 2016 silica dust exposure regulations. There is also a comprehensive OSHA page on silica here.

Silica-safe.org has a lot of info on how to properly work with silica dust.

Click here for Nilfisk’s page on silica dust exposure and OSHA compliance.

How to Clean Your Studio: Never Vacuum?

To clean up, OSHA recommends a HEPA vacuum or wet mopping. But if you look at various forums for pottery and other workshops, most comments will say “never vacuum” and instead suggest wet mopping. Wet mopping is good advice, but a high-quality HEPA vacuum designed to capture silica dust is the other recommendation from OSHA. Not recommended practices include dry sweeping, moving dust with an air hose, or other practices that introduce dust into the air. If you have a personal studio, you should follow this advice too. Therefore, whether you are cleaning the inside of a kiln, using woodworking tools, or creating dust in any way, a high-quality vacuum system should be part of your studio.

Recommended Cleanup Procedures

As mentioned before, wet mopping or using a quality HEPA vacuum are the best ways to remove dangerous particulates such as silica dust from your workspace. As detailed in our post on recommended cleanup tools, here are cleanup suggestions for workspaces:

Tables and countertops Use bench brush and dust pan to carefully clean large chunks. Then wipe clean with water and large yellow sponges.

Floors
Spot-sweep as needed with broom and long-handled dust pan.
Vacuum dust and particles with a high-quality HEPA vacuum.
If sweeping is needed, use sweeping compound to help contain dust and sweep gently. Vigorous sweeping can produce airborne dust, so work slowly and carefully.
After sweeping, then mop floors. If needed, a second mopping should get things spotless.

Kiln room
Kilns are vacuumed as needed with a HEPA vacuum.
Floors are cleaned as described above.
As kiln rooms are sources of a lot of dust from ware storage, kiln wash, kiln shelf maintenance, etc, be extra vigilant about cleaning frequently in kiln rooms.

What to do if you have an old leaky shop vac?

If you are not in a position to upgrade your old vacuum, consider a few alternatives.
1. If you have outdoor space, keep your vacuum outside and run an extra long hose into your workspace for cleanup. Wait for outside air to clear before moving vacuum.
2. Only clean up with sweeping compound, a wet mop, or water and sponge.

Your health and safety is worth it! Be very mindful of all aspects of cleanup, but a high quality HEPA vacuum as reviewed above will significantly help your cleanup routine.

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Summary

To conclude, the 2016 OSHA regulations on silica dust have resulted in new and improved options for vacuums and you should consider it an important part of your health, safety, and organizational approach to your studio. An affordable model such as the Nilfisk Aero 21 HEPA Vacuum will get you a full-unit HEPA quality cleaning for not that much more than a standard, leaky shop vac. An upgrade option is the Festool CT 26 E Dust Collector, which is a well-designed workhorse. The Nilfisk GM-80 is a classic canister style unit, while the Oneida Air Systems Dust Cobra is an industrial-quality vacuum at an affordable price for that type of system.

Do you have other suggestions for HEPA vacuums? Let us know in the comments.

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The Best Cleanup Tools for Ceramic and Art Studios

The Carlisle Mop Bucket, one of two top picks for a studio mop bucket.

Updated and revised, June 12, 2021

In a studio, it’s important to have the right clean up tools to keep things neat, organized, and safe. This is especially true in ceramic and sculpture studios, where dust can be an issue. And while any sort of clean up tool will be better than nothing, high-quality, well-designed tools do stand the test of time and most importantly, really work.

This post is an overview of quality clean-up tools that get the job done. These are the exact tools that I use in my studio.

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Table of Contents

• Dust Pan and Bench Brush

• Long Handle Dust Pans / Lobby Pans

• Brooms

• Sweeping Compound

• Mop and Bucket: Rubbermaid Commercial and Carlisle

• Large Yellow Sponges

• HEPA Vacuum

• Walk Behind Floor Scrubbers

• Clean-Up Recommendations

• Summary

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Dust Pan and Bench Brush/Duster

The Rubbermaid Commercial Dust Pan and Bench Brush/Duster are simply the best dust pan and brush combo that I’ve ever used. The pan is sturdy, functional, and hangs nicely on the wall. It is 12.25” wide and about 3 inches deep at the tallest point.

The bench brush is where you really step up your cleaning game: It’s a heavy-duty brush with relatively soft bristles that clean evenly and completely, and can be washed if needed.

This combo is great for cleaning dirty tabletops, sweeping up larger chunks of clay, sawdust, brushing off a kiln shelf, or for light-duty floor cleaning.

When compared to other dust pan and brush combos, there is simply no comparison. These are long-lasting, functional upgrades to your studio. They will last years, if not decades, under normal use.

The Rubbermaid Commercial 12.5” Dust Pan

The Rubbermaid Commercial Bench Brush / Particle Duster

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Long Handle Dust Pans / Lobby Pans

A long handle dust pan and broom are your other tool for dealing with chunks and dust. They really save your back and make cleanup that much easier. And in a shared studio space such as a community studio, having a long-handled dust pan will greatly increase the likelihood of studio members doing their part to clean up.

Oxo Good Grips Sweeping Sets

The slightly larger Oxo Good Grips Sweep Set with the extendable handle broom.

The Oxo Good Grips Sweeping Sets are my favorite long-handle dust pans and broom combos. Thoughtfully designed and sturdy, it’s what I currently use in my studio and I even purchased the smaller combo for use at home.

The larger “extendable handle” set (shop at Amazon) has a 10.8” wide dust pan that is 3.5 inches tall. The dust pan handle is 35” high, and the broom handle can be extended from 35” to 53” inches.

The smaller set (shop at Amazon) has a 9.5 inch wide dust pan that is 3 inches tall, and the dust pan and broom are around 35 inches tall or 38.5 inches when hanging upright.

Both sets are made from the same sturdy plastic and design, including a swiveling dust pan that can lock in place. The thick rubber “comb” on the dust pan help clean the bristles of the broom. This is especially good for removing hair and dust balls that stick to the broom.

The dust pan handle also contains a handy snap, so the set clicks together for easy storage both upright or hanging. In the hanging mode, the head of the broom can be easily tucked into the dust pan. It’s an all-around great combo.

Rubbermaid Commercial Long Handled Lobby Dust Pan

Another great long-handle dust pan option is the Rubbermaid Commercial Lobby Dust Pan. It has a much larger dust pan than the Oxo version, making it perfect for academic studios and larger spaces, such as community or garage studios. It is heavy duty, holds a large amount of dust and trash, and the pan swivels for picking up and dumpling. For storage, it will sit on the ground or can be hung up by the handle hook.

Rubbermaid Commercial Long Handle Lobby Dust Pan

Rubbermaid Commercial Lobby Broom. Just 7.5” wide, so a standard broom may be better for studios.

This dust pan pairs well with either a standard angle broom or the small lobby broom. The lobby broom is 7.5” wide, putting it on the smaller side if your goal is to clean up dust. I generally prefer a standard angle broom (see below) but the lobby broom does have a shorter handle, hangs up easily, and is good for sweeping larger chunks into the dust pan.

My only complaint about this dust pan is it doesn’t have a clip to hold a broom in place. But like most other Rubbermaid Commercial products, this is a well-built tool that will last forever.

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Brooms

The Rubbermaid 10.5” Angle Broom.

Angle Broom

If you are working in a studio that generates dust, such as a ceramic studio or woodshop, you need to be mindful when sweeping and generating any sort of dust. Sweeping compound can help trap dust at the ground level before it gets in the air, but another way to avoid creating airborne dust is to sweep gently with a soft-bristled broom. Move dirt deliberately into piles, then get it into your dust pan and you should be fine.

The best all-purpose broom for a studio is a simple angle broom. My favorite is the Rubbermaid Commercial 10.5” angle broom. It’s a quality broom and if you ever do actually wear out the brush head, you can buy replacement heads.

Push Broom

Rubbermaid Commercial Smooth Surface Fine Duty brush head for a push broom.

For larger rooms, you may want to also have a push broom or two. These are especially great for larger academic studios, outdoor concrete pads, or hallways. It’s harder to maneuver these around table legs and chairs.

As mentioned above, the way to go with possibly dusty floors is to get the softest bristles possible. For a push broom, the Rubbermaid Commercial Smooth Surface Fine Duty brush head is the way to go. Pair it with a broom handle, and you’ll have a great broom.

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Sweeping Compound

SpillFix all purpose absorbent / sweeping compound.

Anytime you are sweeping a dry or dusty floor, sweeping compound will greatly reduce or eliminate any potential airborne dust and help you grab all the dust and debris. Sweeping compound is typically some form of oily sawdust. It is tacky enough to grab dust and dirt, but dry enough that there is no trace of oil left on the floor. Some sweeping compounds also double as absorbents for oil or other materials.

The best way to use sweeping compound is to fill a plastic cup with a bit of sweeping compound and fling it in a low, horizontal motion in order to distribute it evenly. Then, sweep as normal.

For busy studios, sweeping compound can be ordered in large bags or drums from most hardware stores or warehouse supply stores. Sweeping compound will dry out over time, so it’s best to order what you can use in 6 to 12 months. For smaller studios or if you are trying sweeping compound for the first time, the smallish jar of SpillFix linked below is a great way to test it out. Once you start using sweeping compound, you’ll wonder how you ever swept a studio floor without it.

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Mop and Bucket

Rubbermaid WaveBreak Wringer Bucket

A mop and wringer bucket is an important part of any studio clean-up operation, especially if you are working with clay and want to avoid dust. The best wringer bucket is the Rubbermaid Commercial Wavebreak Bucket Wringer Set and for the mop, my preference is the Rubbermaid Side Gate Mop Handle with a blue mop head.

Rubbermaid Side Gate Mop Handle

I know this post is starting to seem like it’s all Rubbermaid Commercial products, but I have used and can vouch for the quality, durability, and design of these products. (For a review of a Rubbermaid product I don’t endorse, read about 10 gallon buckets here) The good news on wringer buckets is there are a variety of side-press wringer buckets that are all about the same price and are highly reviewed, including Carslisle and Amazon Basics.

The main additional feature of the Rubbermaid is the “WaveBreak” system, essentially two flanges inside the bucket to help control the water when you are rolling the bucket. For me, the WaveBreak doesn’t add much, but I do appreciate the quality of the caster wheels and the wringer system on the Rubbermaid.

For a mop head, I find that the blue headband-style mop heads hold the longest. I prefer the standard 20” length, but there are options out there.

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The Carlisle Mop Bucket is available in a 35 and 26 quart size.

Carlisle Mop Buckets

For an alternative to the Rubbermaid Mop Bucket, check out the Carlisle Mop Buckets. They are available in two sizes: 26 quart and 35 quart, and a variety of colors. Options are good! And the smaller size is appropriate for smaller studios. They do not feature the “Wavebreak” middle bumper found on the Rubbermaid bucket, but this actually makes it easier to clean out the grime that settles to the bottom of the bucket.

I use and stock the 35 quart Rubbermaid bucket in larger studios, but in my own personal studio, I have the 26 quart Carlisle bucket. The mop wringer top part is the same size as the larger model, but the 4.5 gallon bucket takes up less room while providing enough water for cleanup. The casters don’t seem as robust as the Rubbermaid buckets, but overall, it’s basically the same, well-built mop bucket.

The Carlisle Mop Buckets are also available in a five colors.

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Large Yellow Sponges

Armaly ProPlus Grouting and Cleanup Sponge

Large yellow sponges are one of the best cleanup tools for the size, versatility, and ability to pick up large volumes of liquid. I use them every day in the studio and have tried just about every brand name and generic out there.

My advice is to go for quality on yellow sponges, and my favorite is the Armaly ProPlus Grouting and Cleanup Sponge. It does cost more, but it lasts so much longer. The generic packs you’ll find online contain sponges that usually fall apart in weeks. The Armaly Pro sponges last 6 months or longer under heavy use in the community studio I manage, and should last even longer in a personal studio.

Another decent option is the QEP yellow sponge, which will also last longer than generics. For a full rundown of heavy-duty cleanup sponges, click here. If the prices online seem too high, you may be able to find these sponges for less at big box hardware stores.

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HEPA Vacuum

Nilfisk Alto Aero 26 Hepa Vacuum.

A quality HEPA vacuum is a must-have in any studio, especially if you are working with clay, plaster, or wood and generating dust. It’s always best to wet mop (or use sweeping compound) to avoid putting dust in the air, but if you do use a vacuum, you want to know that you have good filters and are not putting the fine dust back in the air. And for situations like cleaning the inside of a kiln, you definitely need a good vacuum.

The Nilfisk Alto Aero HEPA vacuum is a good balance of quality, and design. It is certified for drywall dust abatement. It’s on the more expensive side for a wet/dry vac, but it’s on the cheaper side for high quality HEPA dust vacuums. (I personally use a 20-year-old Nilfisk GM80. Those are great vacuums if you have $1400…)

I have used other Nilfisk vacuums at various shops and have always been impressed with their quality. Expect this to be an investment that lasts for years or decades.

For a complete review of HEPA vacuums that work for silica dust abatement, click here.

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Walk Behind Floor Scrubbers

The Clark Vantage 14, a walk behind floor scrubber made by Nilfisk-Advance.

For larger studios, a battery-operated floor scrubber can be a quick and effective way to clean up. These machines put water down, scrub and clean with a rotating head, and then a rear squeegee helps collect water that is sucked back into the machine.

Available in a variety of sizes, these machines will make short work of even thousands of square feet of studio space. They do costs thousands of dollars, making them more appropriate for larger studios. But in the end, a unit like this will save time and result in cleaner floors. One piece of advice is to definitely get a cordless model.

A smaller option for this type of machine is the Clarke Vantage 14, which is made by Nilfisk-Advance. It has a 14 inch scrubber head, 3 gallon capacity, 100 minutes of battery life, and produces a relatively quiet 64 dB of noise when in operation.

Tennant T2 Walk Behind Floor Scrubber

The Tennant T2 floor scrubber.

A larger, battery-powered floor scrubber is the Tennant T2. It has a 17 inch wide scrubbing disc, a 7 gallon capacity for water or cleaning solution, and a 9.5 gallon reservoir for soiled water. It has a quiet, 68 dB operating noise and is somewhat compact at 44 inches long, 27 inches wide, and 36 inches tall.

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Clean Up Recommendations

Here is how I clean up:

Tables and countertops
Use bench brush and dust pan to clean large chunks. Then wipe clean with water and large yellow sponges.

Floors
Spot-sweep as needed with broom and long-handled dust pan.
Use sweeping compound and sweep. Vigorous sweeping can produce airborne dust, so work slowly and carefully.
After sweeping, then mop floors. If needed, a second mopping should get things spotless.

Kiln room
Kilns are vacuumed as needed with a HEPA vacuum.
Floors are cleaned as described above.
As kiln rooms are sources of a lot of dust from ware storage, kiln wash, kiln shelf maintenance, etc, I am extra vigilant about cleaning frequently in kiln rooms.

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Summary

This post has covered all the clean up tools I use in my own studio and studios that I manage. These recommendations are made based on years of personal experience and what has worked for me and other studio members. Cleaning up is an incredibly important part of the art making process, and you want to have the right tools to make the job efficient and effective.

What clean up tools do you use in your studio? Let us know in the comments.

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The Best Glaze Mixing Accessories For Ceramic Studios

Mixing your own glazes from scratch is cost-effective and allows you to customize glazes to suit your studio. Whether you are mixing a powdered glaze with water, or weighing each ingredient and starting from scratch, having the ability to mix glazes opens up possibilities in your studio. You don’t need a huge set up to get started, a few simple tools and buckets are all you need. Below are reviews of our favorite glaze-mixing accessosories.

This list includes:

• Drills

• Immersion Blenders

• Sieves and Strainers

• Dust Protection

• Mixer Blades

• Scales

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Drills

A drill is one of the most important glaze-mixing tools. Sure, you could get a big whisk or paddle and mix your glaze by hand, but….I wouldn’t recommend it.

For a drill, my favorite is the Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill. It’s compact, well built, and affordable. And it has enough power to mix a 5 gallon bucket and just enough power to mix 10 gallons of glaze. It’s also cordless, which I find easier to use in the studio but you do sacrifice some power and you’ll have to deal with recharging batteries.

There are a lot of drill options out there, with all sorts of options, battery and cord styles. For more info, check out the Studio Manager Cordless Drill Review and our Corded Drill Review

The Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill.

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Immersion Blender

The Mueller immersion blender.

For small batches of glaze, especially test batches, an immersion blender is a great tool. Designed for kitchen use, these definitely have enough power to hold up in the studio. I would just make sure you have one dedicated for studio use and a separate blender for kitchen use.

For an immersion blender, I have never noticed much of a difference between name brands and generics. You just want a blender that will work and get your glaze mixed. A great option for this is the Mueller Austria 9 Speed Immersion Blender. You probably don’t need all those speeds, but it does have a turbo button which speeds things up. And at around $30-35, this is one of the more affordable immersion blenders on the market.

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Sieves and Strainers

A sieve is an important part of mixing glazes. A sieve insures that particles are broken up and that the ingredients are evenly distributed in the glaze. Proper mixing and straining also reduces glazes flaws, generally resulting in a more even glaze. If you are mixing glazes from dry powder or from scratch, you must run them through a sieve. Generally, I have a variety of sieves in the studio including a simple kitchen sieve, a smaller tea strainer, and specialized tools such as the Talisman Rotary Sieve.

The Talisman Rotary Sieve.

Talisman Rotary Sieve

The best tool for sieving glazes is the Talisman Rotary Sieve. This is a large, hand-cranked sieve that will fit over a 5 or 10 gallon bucket. It has three brushes which can be removed for cleaning (or replaced if worn out) and removable screens. This allows you to choose which size of mesh to screen your glaze. Typically, this is done somewhere between 80 to 120 mesh. The Talisman Rotary Sieve is expensive, usually $200-250, but it makes short work of the sieving process and the brush system helps break up smaller particles, resulting in a uniform glaze batch. It’s an incredibly well-built tool and if handled with respect, it will hold up for decades of use. Talisman Rotary Sieves are typically only available from speciality clay supply stores, so shop clay stores online or contact your local clay supplier.

Talisman Test Sieve

Talisman Test Sieve

Another option, especially for glaze test batches, is a cup sieve such as the Talisman Test Sieve. These small sieves are stackable, come in a variety of mesh sizes from 5 to 250, and are really well built. You probably just need one or a few, I’d suggest an 80 to start and in my own studio, I generally just use 40 mesh for a rough sieve and 80 mesh for a fine sieve.

Cuisinart Fine Mesh Steel Strainer

Fine Mesh Steel Strainers

Another useful tool is a kitchen steel mesh strainer. These are not fine enough for a final glaze strain, but the wider mesh is still useful for quickly breaking up chunks of material. They are also great for quickly processing glaze in order to remove any bisque chunks or other small things.

When mixing glaze, materials such as Wollastonite, Soda Ash, Borax, Zinc Oxide, and most oxides used for colorants and others must be run through glaze sieve (usually 80 mesh), but if you start with a kitchen sieve, you’ll get the big chunks out quickly and can have an easier time with the glaze sieve. Smaller strainers such as a tea strainer are also useful for quickly running an underglaze or small batch through mesh. Sometimes, a simple mix and strain can bring a thickened glaze, underglaze, or slip back to being easy to use.

A great option for a kitchen steel mesh strainer is the Cuisinart 3 pack of Fine Mesh Metal Strainers. The all-metal design makes it easy to clean and maintain, and the variety of sizes will help with most small to medium glaze batches, or if you need to quickly strain a chunky material before running it through a finer mesh. There is also a link to a similar product by ExcelSteel at Home Depot.

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Recommended Sieve Sizes

Here’s a useful chart of recommended sieve mesh sizes to use when mixing glaze, slip, and casting slip.

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Face Masks and Dust Protection

Dust protection and personal protection equipment is vital when mixing glazes. The main worry is any sort of airborne particles, particularly the finest particles such as silica. Repeated exposure to these particles, found in all dry glaze and clay materials, can lead to respiratory problems. Some also choose to wear plastic gloves when mixing and using glazes. The best thing when thinking about gloves is to assess your own risk and work to understand what is in glazes and what may be dangerous.

Respirator

The 3M Half Facepiece Respirator with P100 cartridge style filters.

The best dust protection is a respirator. These devices are reusable, fit on your face more tightly than a dust mask, and the filters can be replaced as needed. Although moisture can build up, I find them to be more comfortable than a paper or surgical type mask, and they definitely provide a tighter fit. One drawback though, is you can’t really talk to anyone while they are on.

For a respirator, I have always used a 3M half facepiece respirator with P100 filters. They are usually widely available, so it’s easy to find replacement filters in stores or online. It can be hard to tell if the filters are getting full of dust, so I generally buy new filters every 6 months. It can round around $20 for new filters, but as someone who works full time in ceramic studios, I don’t want to take any risks with my lungs.

If you don’t want to get a respirator, at the very least get a N95 or KN95 mask and wear it whenever you are working with dry glaze or clay materials. Also be aware, fine particles can remain in the air for a while, use caution when mixing and try to keep dust out of the air. For more, see our complete article on dust masks for studios.

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Mixing Blades and Paddles

The right mixer blade will make your glaze and slip mixing quick and efficient. It’s best to stock different size mixers for mixing different amounts of glaze. These are the mixing blades I stock in my own studio.

The small Jiffy LM10 Mixer Blade, also called a laboratory mixer.

Small Mixer Blade

To mix pint jars and small cups, the Jiffy LM10 Mixer Blade is just the right size. It’s 10 1/4” long with a 1 1/4” head.

Helix mixer blade for 1 to 2 gallon buckets

MEDIUM MIXER BLADE

For one to two gallons, I prefer a helix mixer designed for 1 gallon buckets. It’s cheaper than a metal blade but it can really mix. As long as you don’t grind the plastic blades against buckets, these economical blades should last for years and also work well for jobs such as mixing plaster.

The Jiffy ES Mixer Blade for 2 to 10 gallon buckets of glaze.

LARGE MIXER BLADE

For 5 or 10 gallon buckets, the Jiffy ES mixer blade is the way to go. It has a 20 1/2” long, 3/8” shaft and the head is 3 3/4” wide. It’s perfect for 5 gallon buckets and it will mix up to 10 gallons as long as you have a strong enough drill (usually a corded drill or a higher powered cordless drill)

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Scales and Accessories

A scale is a must-have for mixing glazes. An accurate, durable scale is a great investment. My favorite is the Oxo 11 Pound Scale. To read about other scale options, the Studio Manager scale review can be found here.

The Oxo 11 Pound / 5 KG Scale is great for home or studio use.

The Oxo 11 Pound Scale is designed for kitchen use but it’s a just as useful in the studio. It runs on 4 AAA batteries, and is accurate to 1/8 ounce or 1 gram. A great feature is the pull-out, light up display that allows you to use the scale with larger bowls. The scale has four buttons: a lb/kg toggle, light switch, zero button, and power. The top stainless steel platform can also be removed for cleaning. This scale can accommodate up to 11 pounds or almost 5 kilograms at a time. It’s an incredible amount of features in a scale that typically costs about $50.

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Ohaus Maxi-Scoop Bowl

The Ohaus Maxi-Scoop bowl.

The Ohaus Maxi-Scoop is my favorite bowl to use when weighing dry ingredients. Made of polypropylene, it is 10 inches wide, has a pouring spout, and is durable and easy to clean. It holds a lot of material, typically up to about 2500 grams, and the open, wider design makes it easier to use in my opinion. Of course, you can use any sort of bowl to measure dry ingredients, but this one just seems to be ideal for scales and it’s the one I reach for first when I’m mixing glaze.

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Metal Scoops

A quality metal scoop makes working with dry materials so much easier. In a pinch, I’ve repurposed small yogurt containers as scoops, but a durable, long-lasting metal scoop is better. For large storage bins or bags, you might get a scoop for each material. Or if you have a collection of 2 to 4 different sizes, you can get through most glaze batches without contaminating between materials, and then wash the scoops after glazing. For really strong ingredients such as red iron oxide, I leave small scoops in each bin so I don’t have to clean the scoops each time I use them.

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Wrap-Up

This post has listed my favorite tools and accessories for use when mixing glaze, including drills, immersion blenders, sieves and strainers, dust protection, mixer blades, and scales. It may seem like a lot of stuff, but each tool has it’s role to play in the glaze-mixing process. If you are new to mixing glaze, start with the basics such as a scale, dust-protection and maybe just a wooden spoon, and go from there. You can always add tools as needed.

What are your favorite tools to use when mixing glaze? Let us know in the comments.

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The Best Scales for Ceramic Studios and Workshops

Note: This post is out of date and will be archived soon.

Please click here to visit the new and updated 2025 Best Scales for Ceramic Studios

The OXO 11 Pound Food Scale is the top pick for a studio scale. It is accurate, affordable, durable, and has a pull-out, light-up display. It’s shown here with the Ohaus Maxi-Scoop bowl and a metal scoop.

A scale for a studio or workshop is a heavily-used tool that needs to be accurate, easy to use, and durable. These days, you can get a great scale without spending a lot of money. This post will cover affordable but durable scales that get the job done and hold up under the heavy use of an academic or community ceramic studio.

TOP PICK: OXO 11 Pound Food Scale

The OXO 11 Pound Scale, going strong after years of studio use.

The OXO Good Grips 11 Pound Scale is the top pick for a scale in a ceramics or art studio. With accuracy to 1 gram, this scale has a large enough capacity for most glaze or plaster-mixing needs. It’s made for home kitchen use but is super tough and has thoughtful design features such as a pull-out, light-up display. It runs on 4 AAA batteries, and is accurate to 1/8 ounce or 1 gram. It is simply incredible that a scale under $50 is this accurate. For similar or more accurate scales (options like this reviewed below) you’ll easily pay $100 or more.

The pull-out, light-up display on the OXO 11 lb capacity scale (Shop at Amazon)

The scale has four buttons: lb/kg toggle, light switch, zero, and power. It’s simple and intuitive, and the pull-out display helps if you are using wide bowls. The top stainless steel platform can also be removed for cleaning.

This scale can accommodate up to 11 pounds or almost 5 kilograms at a time. The display will help you know when you’re reaching capacity by displaying more bars on the right-hand side. When mixing glaze, the 5,000 gram capacity is definitely enough. But if you work with larger amounts of material, a higher-capacity scale is reviewed below.

Prior to working with the OXO 11 Pound Scale, I only wanted to use more professional scales with 0.1 gram accuracy. But this is an affordable, durable, well built, and most importantly, accurate scale. The 1 gram accuracy is exact enough for most purposes, and it will survive many years of use in any studio. I liked this scale so much that I bought the smaller OXO 5 Pound Food Scale for use at home.

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Table of Contents

• Top Pick: OXO Good Grips 11 Pound Scale

• Budget Pick: Accuteck All-In-One Scale

• Upgrade pick: MyWeigh iBalance 5500

• Heavy Duty Pick: MyWeigh HD-300 Shipping Scale

• Manual Scale Pick: LEM Stainless Steel Scale

• Other Scale Options

• Scale Accessories

• Summary

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Budget Pick: Accuteck All-in-One Digital Scale

The Accuteck All-In-One Digital Scale

The Accuteck All-In-One 50lb Digital Scale (Shop at Amazon) is a great budget option. It can weigh up to 50lbs of material, is well-built, and is very affordable—usually priced under $20. I have been using one in a busy community ceramics studio for 3 years and it has held up under heavy use.

This scale runs on 3 AAA batteries or an optional 5V plug-in adapter. It is accurate to 0.2 ounce, or about 2 grams. It is definitely not as accurate as our top pick, but if you need something for the occasional glaze batch, it will be ok. It is also great to keep on the wedging table for measuring pieces of clay.

When I originally purchased this, I didn’t expect it to be so well built and have been extremely happy with the purchase. In a world full of low-quality generics and knock offs, I would definitely recommend this scale if you are on a budget. The only drawback is that it is only accurate to about 2 grams. This scale wouldn’t be very accurate if you were measuring small quantities of glaze materials.

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Upgrade Pick: MyWeigh iBalance 5500

The MyWeigh iBalance 5500 scale is accurate to 0.1 grams and has a 5500 gram / 12 lb capacity.

The MyWeigh iBalance 5500 (Shop at Amazon) is a great upgrade pick for a studio scale. It’s accurate to 0.1 grams while maintaining a large capacity of 5500 grams or about 12 pounds. It has a stainless steel top, optional AC power adapter, simple and intuitive buttons, and a 3 year warranty. The four feet can be independently leveled too.

It’s a workhorse for glaze mixing that allows you to do large batches, or fine tune a small amount of material to a high degree exactitude. You’ll pay more for this accuracy — around $150 at the time of this post — but if you need the range from a few grams to larger amounts, this scale will deliver. There are other models in the MyWeigh iBalance line too, ranging up to 11000 gram capacity.

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Heavy Duty Pick: MyWeigh HD-300 Shipping Scale

The MyWeigh HD-300 Heavy Duty Shipping Scale (shop at Amazon) is the top pick for a shipping scale, but it’s also accurate enough for large batches of plaster, concrete, or other studio materials. It can measure up to 300 pounds with an accuracy of 0.1 lbs or to within about 2 ounces. It has a steel top and a remote display on a six foot cord, so you can easily get the weight of even the largest package. It’s powered by 4 AA batteries or an optional AC power adapter. It also has a built-in USB port, if you want to set up communication with printers or other devices. Finally, it has adjustable feet and easy to clean surfaces. This is a great heavy duty scale that comes in around $130. There are plenty of cheaper shipping scales, but if you read online reviews closely, you’ll see that they fail or are inaccurate, while this scale is built too withstand the test of time.

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Manual Scale Pick: LEM Stainless Steel Scale

The LEM Stainless Steel Scale.

The LEM Stainless Steel Scale is a great option for weighing wet clay, plaster, or as a shipping scale. It has a 10” x 8” steel platform, and can weigh up to 44 lbs / 20 kg with an accuracy of 2 ounces or around 50 grams. It’s not accurate enough for mixing glazes, but for just about everything else, this is a great option that is affordable, durable and doesn’t need any batteries or plugs. Sometimes it’s good to keep it simple and for $30, you can’t go wrong with this scale.

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Other Scale Options

Rubbermaid Commercial 150lb Digital Scale

Rubbermaid Commercial 150lb Scale

The Rubbermaid Commercial 150 Pound Scale is another option for a rugged scale that can measure packages, plaster, or any type of material.

It has a wide metal platform, and the display can be mounted on the wall or pulled to the side with a 9 foot cord. The scale has a capacity of 150 pounds or 68 kilograms, and runs on a 9V battery or option AC adapter.

The drawback of this scale is that it is only accurate to about 1/2 pound. Previous models of this scale were more accurate to around 2/10 of a pound, so it is disappointing that Rubbermaid has let the quality drop. There are also complaints online about this unit, specifically the controller, breaking after a few months of use. That hasn’t been my experience though, so I would still recommend this with the caveat that you treat the control / display panel carefully. It’s priced about the same as the MyWeigh shipping scale, or around $130.

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The Ohaus CX1201 Scale, 1200 gram capacity with 0.1 gram accuracy.

Ohaus Digital Scale

Ohaus is one of the most trusted names in scales, and the the Ohaus Portable Balance CX1201 is accurate to 0.1 grams with a capacity of 1200 grams or about 2.6 pounds. It costs a bit over $100 and runs on 3 AA batteries or an optional plug.

I prefer the larger capacity of the MyWeigh 5500, but this scale has a balance of accuracy, cost, and quality that is hard to beat. If you regularly measure smaller batches of glaze and need 0.1 gram accuracy, this scale will deliver.

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Triple Beam

The Ohaus Triple Pro Scale

“Triple-beam lyrical dream” as Biggie used to rap, these types of scales were the standard for drug dealers and glaze chemists alike. Now, almost everyone has switched to digital scales. I definitely have. But, if you want to go old school or want to keep it simple and not worry about batteries or breakdowns, a triple-beam scale is the way to go. They are extremely accurate, long-lasting, and durable. It just takes longer to get a measurement.

Ohaus makes a great scale, the Triple Pro Mechanical Triple Beam with a 610 to 2610 gram capacity that is accurate to 0.1 grams. The scale has a basic capacity of 610 grams, but you can add counterweights to increase the capacity to 2610 grams. If you want to invest in a long-term piece of equipment, this is the kind of tool you could pass down to your grandchildren.

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Favorite Scale Accessories

The Ohaus Maxi-Scoop bowl for weighing dry materials.

Ohaus Maxi-Scoop Bowl

The Ohaus Maxi-Scoop is my favorite bowl to use when weighing dry ingredients. Made of polypropylene, it is 10 inches wide, has a pouring spout, and is durable and easy to clean. You can get quite a bit of dry material piled up in this bowl, and the open, wider design makes it easy to use. Of course, you can use any sort of bowl to measure dry ingredients, but this one just seems to be ideal for scales and it’s the one I reach for first when I’m mixing glazes.

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Metal Scoops

Metal scoops are the easiest way to pick up glaze materials, plaster, or any dry material. They are also long lasting and easy to clean. A variety of sizes works, or some people like to keep an individual scoop in each bucket of material.

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Ohaus Footed Scoop Bowl

The Ohaus Footed Scoop Bowl.

The Ohaus Footed Scoop is another great option for mixing dry materials. It doesn’t hold as much material as the Maxi-Scoop, but the design of this bowl is much easier to pour. There’s also a metal option in this design, which is super long lasting, but it’s very expensive.

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Summary

This post has covered a variety of scale options suitable for a ceramics, sculpture, or art studio. Many of these will work at home too. My top pick is the OXO 11 Pound Scale for it’s combination of accuracy, durability, and price. But there are a variety of other options too, along with my favorite accessories for mixing glaze and other materials.

What scale do you use in your studio? Let us know in the comments.

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The Best Corded Drills for Art Studios and Workshops

A corded drill is always worth having in a studio or home workshop. They are powerful, durable, and affordable. The trade off is that you have to deal with a cord. But if you are working near a power source and don’t mind the cord, there is nothing better and more powerful. This post will review a few recommended drills, cover the advantages and disadvantages of a corded drill, and share some tips on how to use drills for mixing glazes and other studio tasks. If you are looking for a cordless drill, check out our review here.

TOP PICK: DeWalt DWD 115K 3/8” Variable Speed Drill

The DeWalt DWD 115K Drill is my top pick for a corded drill. It’s what I use — my DWD 115 from 2008 is still going strong after more than a decade of heavy use. The newest model, the 115K, is virtually unchanged from previous models. Why mess with a classic? The drill is on the heavy side, weighing just over 4 lbs, but it is solid, evenly balanced, has a ton of torque, and will do almost everything you need it to do in a very affordable package. It’s especially great for drilling and using with mixing blades. It’s not a contractor-grade jobsite drill, but for the rest of us, this is the best corded drill. A full review of this drill is below

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Table of Contents

• Top Pick: DeWalt DWD 115K 3/8” Drill

• Runner Up: Metabo HPT 3/8” Drill

• Third Pick: Bosch 3/8” Drill

• Other Corded Drill Options

• Favorite Mixing Blades and Drill Accessories

• Corded vs Cordless Drills: Advantages and Disadvantages

• Background and Research

• Summary

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Top Pick: DeWalt DWD 115K 3/8” Drill

The DeWalt DWD 115K 3/8” Drill with variable speed and keyless chuck.

The DeWalt DWD115k 3/8” Drill is my top pick for a corded drill and it’s far and away the best drill in this category and price among any brand. It is durable, powerful, and affordable. I’ve used a DWD115 model for more than a decade, and it is held up under heavy use. I expect my drill to last for decades longer! The DeWalt 115 model is a classic and the newest model is little changed. The 115K is not a lightweight drill, weighing 4.1 lbs, but it feels evenly balanced and despite the weight is comfortable to use. It has a convenient flip-switch right above the pistol-trigger, to toggle between forward and reverse without moving your hand. It has a well-built keyless metal chuck, but there is a model with a keyed chuck, if that is your preference.

My drill: a DeWalt 115 Drill that is still looking good after more than a decade of use. This model of drill is a classic.

The drill doesn’t come with a very long cord, so you’ll most likely need a quality extension cord to put this into use. You’ll also need to get drill bits and mixer blades, which are covered farther down in this post.

I used to work in a busy academic studio where one of these DeWalt drills was used for mixing glazes. The DeWalt endured all sorts of misuse at the hands of the students (glaze splashes, dirty hands, etc.) and it kept going strong.

If a corded drill is what you need, this is the drill to get. It is tough, powerful, and well-built. If it’s maintained, it might be the only corded drill you ever buy.

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Second Pick: Metabo HPT 3/8” Drill

The Metabo HPT 3/8” Drill

The DeWalt DWD115K is such a leader in this category that it’s hard to recommend other drills. But the Metabo HPT 3/8” Drill is a distant second.

Metabo is a rebranded version of Hitachi Power Tools (hence, the HPT in the name) and it has many great features: an all-metal keyless chuck, decent amount of power, good ergonomics, and an affordable price of around $50. You can definitely get a lot more features if you step up to a 1/2” drill and are willing to spend $100 or more, but this drill is a good compromise.

Close up of the variable-speed dial on the trigger. It’s a funky, awkward design.

Hitachi made quality, long-lasting tools and the rebranded Metabo should be the same. But it’s just been since the Fall of 2018 that the Metabo rebrand took place so the jury may still be out on what changes, if any, happened with the name change.

Compared to the top pick, you get a similar all-metal keyless chuck, almost as much power (7.0 amps as opposed to 8.0) and a drill that is 1 pound lighter, at just over 3 lbs. I will happily trade a bit of power for a lighter drill that is comfortable to use over time.

The trade off comes in the trigger. It’s got a variable-speed dial built right into the trigger, which is a very funky design. And flipping between forward and reverse is not as easy with just one hand as the on the DeWalt.

This drill will run you about $15-20 less than the DeWalt and occasionally, Amazon has refurbished or “renewed” versions of this drill for $25. You can’t beat that for a decent drill, and if money is the bottom line, this is a good drill.

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Third Pick: Bosch 1006VSR 3/8” Drill

The Bosch 1006VSR 3/8” Drill.

The third pick is the Bosch 1006VSR 3/8” variable-speed, corded drill. Bosch makes high-quality, well-respected products and this is a good drill. It’s just not as good as our top pick, but it’s also $10-15 cheaper. Rather than an all-metal chuck, it has a metal chuck with a plastic collar. In my experience, these plastic collars or plastic chucks just don’t stand the test of time but when I make this consideration I’m thinking about heavy use over 5 or 10 years in a communal studio, where the drill is getting used on an hourly basis for mixing glazes. Your use may vary.

Aside from the partially-plastic chuck, this drill has 6.3 amps (as opposed to 8 on the DeWalt), has a large, two-finger trigger, and a button to switch between forward and reverse. The button is not as ergonomic as the DeWalt, but it does stay locked in place.

The drill weighs 4 lbs, about the same as the DeWalt but 1 lb more than the Metabo. Aside from that, it’s a standard, well-built drill that should handle most things needed in a studio or at home.

As stated before, the DeWalt is the clear market leader for this type of drill. But if I was choosing between the second pick and the Bosch, I would evaluate my trust in the Bosch name, how I felt about an all-metal chuck versus this plastic-collar chuck, and the difference in the weight of the drills. The Bosch was almost my second pick but I don’t have as much confidence in the chuck.

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Other Corded Drill Options

As with any electronic tool or gadget, there’s an innumerable amount of options and designs from both name-brand and generic makers. Hopefully the three drills above will give you a starting point. But there are some other drills to consider, which I’ll cover briefly.

The first drill I ever bought was a Craftsman, and the Craftsman 7 amp 3/8” drill is very similar to the model I had and used for almost 10 years. Generally, I’m a fan of Craftsman products (Must be all those years of hanging out in my grandfather’s woodshop with his Craftsman tools) and this drill is ok. But with a plastic chuck? I don’t know. It does have a toggle forward/reverse switch like the DeWalt, and a “lock on” switch for continuous use. But it’s just not as good as our top picks.

The Porter Cable 6-amp, 3/8” drill looks quite similar to the Craftsman model in make and build, including a plastic chuck and a toggle forward/reverse switch, and the “lock on” button on the handle. It’s another old-school brand that I want to trust, but a drill like this makes me wonder if it is coasting on its history and basically rebranding a generic drill.

The Black and Decker 6 amp 3/8” Drill is in many ways similar to the drills above, but it has a plastic chuck. Online reviewers noted that there was some “play” in the chuck if they didn’t get the bit set just right. I mention this drill here as a comparison. Generally, I don’t ever buy Black and Decker tools as I find that they are cheaply made and do not last over the long haul.

More Powerful / Larger Drills

So far, every drill I’ve mentioned has a 3/8” opening in the chuck. If you want a step up in power or size, there are some great 1/2” models that don’t cost too much more than our top pick.

Dewalt has a 7.8 amp, 1/2” drill with a keyed chuck that runs about $100, or a more powerful 10 amp, 1/2” drill for about $120. These are both great drills with the same level of DeWalt quality throughout.

Milwaukee also has an 8 amp 1/2” drill with a keyed chuck for around $120 that is well built, powerful, and long lasting.

If you are really having a hard time deciding what kind of drill you need, the best thing is to go to a store and handle them and see what feels good to you. If the store will let you try drilling something, then you’ll really know what is the best drill for you.

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Mixing Blades and Accessories for Your Drill

With your drill, you’ll need bits, screws, and mixer blades to put it to work. Here’s what I recommend:

DRILL BITS AND SCREWS

Any quality brand of screws and drill bits should get the job done. But just like drills, there are tons of options out there. Your local hardware store might be the easiest way to see what you need in person, but for shopping online, here are some links:

Drill bits: This basic 14-piece set from DeWalt is a great place to start.

Screwdriver set and bits: This set from DeWalt covers all the basics.

Hollow Core Diamond Drill Bits from Neiko

DIAMOND BITS

Diamond bits really help if you are working with glass, tile, hard plastic, or ceramic. For glazed ceramics, diamond bits are your only option for cleanly drilling a hole.

This 5 piece set of diamond-dusted, hollow core bits from Neiko has decent quality despite being less than $10. It will cut holes right through bisqueware (make sure to do it under running water) and it will also work on glazed ware. Just be slow and steady when using these on glazed ware, and use proper protection such as goggles.

The small Jiffy LM10 Mixer Blade

SMALL MIXER BLADE

To mix pint jars and small cups, the Jiffy LM10 Mixer Blade is just the right size. It’s 10 1/4” long with a 1 1/4” head.

Helix mixer blade for 1 to 2 gallon buckets

MEDIUM MIXER BLADE

For one to two gallons, I prefer a helix mixer designed for 1 gallon buckets. It’s cheaper than a metal blade but it can really mix. As long as you don’t grind the plastic blades against buckets, these economical blades should last for years and also work well for jobs such as mixing plaster.

Jiffy ES Mixer Blade closeup.

LARGE MIXER BLADE

For 5 or 10 gallon buckets, the Jiffy ES mixer blade is the way to go. It has a 20 1/2” long, 3/8” shaft and the head is 3 3/4” wide.

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Corded vs. Cordless Drills

A corded and cordless drill each have their advantages and disadvantages. I like to have both but most people get by with just one drill. If you are looking for a cordless drill, check out our cordless drill recommendations here. Here’s some things to consider when choosing a drill:

Advantages of a Corded Drill

• Affordable: Cheaper and more powerful than a cordless drill.

• More power: You’ll get a stronger motor and heavier build quality on a corded drill than a cordless drill at similar prices.

• Instant torque: You don’t have to wait for a corded drill to get up to speed.

• No stopping to change or recharge batteries.

• No future expense of replacing batteries as they wear out.

• Less wasteful: A corded drill won’t result in worn-out batteries that need to be recycled or disposed.

Disadvantages of a Corded Drill

• A corded drill limits you to being plugged in to a power source or working with an extension cord.

• Usually Heavier: The extra weight may not work for everyone. I’m thinking of shared ceramic studios with students of all ages. A lighter cordless drill is more accommodating for all.

• For certain projects, such as drilling screws, corded drills are almost too powerful. Crazy, huh? Cordless drills are generally weaker and you’re not as likely to over-torque or damage screws, etc. A gentle touch on any corded, variable-speed drill should work, but if you have a heavy trigger finger, get a less powerful drill. Or — this is another reason to have both types of drill. A corded drill is great for drilling and using with mixing blades, while a weaker cordless drill is perfect for driving screws.

Considerations for all drills

• Keyless or keyed chucks? Generally, a keyed chuck can be locked in super tight, but you’ll need to use (and not lose) the key. Keyless chucks are more convenient but can wear out

• How often do you use the drill? If it’s infrequent, you may find that a cordless drill always has a dead battery when you need to use it.

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BACKGROUND

I have used tons of different drills over the years, and this review is based on that experience along with looking at many recent reviews of corded drill reviews and every other source I could find, include user reviews on Amazon and checking out models in person. In the studio, I like to use the best tools at the lowest price. What that means in practice is I avoid the super-cheap brands such as Black and Decker, or Ryobi, and will generally choose the base models of top quality brands such as Milwaukee, Bosch, and DeWalt. I totally understand the need for a powerful, $200+ drill for a construction job site. But in my experience, the entry-level drills are powerful enough for most uses. They work for me and I think they’ll work for you too.

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Wrap-Up

This post covered top picks for corded drills, as well as some useful tools and accessories. My top pick was the DeWalt DRD115K 3/8” drill. It’s a durable, powerful drill that is versatile, comfortable, and should work for most situations in a studio or home workshop. With this drill, I keep a variety of mixer blades, as well as drill bits, screwdriver bits, and hollow-core diamond bits.

A corded drill is a vital tool in the studio. What type of drill do you like to use? Let us know your favorite models and accessories in the comments.

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The Best Cordless Drills for Art Studios and Workshops

A good cordless drill is a must have in any studio. Between a corded and a cordless drill, I’ll always grab the cordless first. But with numerous options, it can be hard to know where to start in picking a drill. This post will review the best cordless drills for a ceramic or art studio, share my philosophy on how to shop for tools like this, and list a few favorite drill attachments for use in a ceramics studio.

TOP PICK: Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill/Driver

Before jumping into the complete post, the top pick is the Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill/Driver. It’s a compact, lightweight, and powerful drill that is not too expensive but has excellent build quality. It also has a comfortable grip and the M12 battery system makes it compatible with a huge variety of Milwaukee tools. It’s what I stock and use in my own studio, but the smaller size and light weight make this a drill that can be used by just about anybody.

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Table of Contents

• Top Pick: Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill

• Runner up: Dewalt 12V Brushless 3/8” Drill

• Third Pick: Bosch PS31 3/8” Drill or Bosch PS32 3/8” Brushless Drill

• Other Drill Options

• Favorite Mixer Blades and other attachments

• Cordless vs. Corded Drills

• Background and Research

• Wrap-Up

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Top Pick: Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill/Driver

The Milwaukee M12 3/8 Drill Driver

The Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill/Driver is my top pick for a cordless drill, and it’s the drill that I use and stock in my studio. It’s compact and lightweight, but with enough power to really mix a 5 gallon bucket of glaze and just enough power to mix a 10 gallon bucket. The build quality is excellent, and it includes variable speeds, a battery charge light indicator, and the keyless chuck makes it easy to change bits as needed. I use a variety of mixer blades including an ES Jiffy Blade, and this drill can go slow enough to mix a pint jar and is powerful enough to mix 5 or 10 gallon buckets of glaze.

The Milwaukee M12 3/8 Drill Driver Kit

This is the drill that I have stocked in academic and community studios, which are used by scores of students weekly. This drill holds up under those intense conditions. In educational spaces, these tools get used hard and are often subject to misuse, such as splashes of glazes. So far, this drill has survived everything but if it was damaged beyond repair, the basic drill without a battery is especially affordable and would be easy to replace. You can buy just the bare drill with no battery for around $55. The 2407-22 Kit, which includes a drill, charging station, 2 batteries, and bag, costs around $115 at the time of this review. Without a battery, this drill weighs 2.1 lbs.

Additionally, the M12 battery makes this an attractive option if you wanted to use any of the other 100+ Milwaukee tools in the M12 System, such as a jig saw, circular saw, or compact leaf blower.

For extra batteries, definitely get the official Milwaukee brand batters, such as this extended capacity option. Speaking from experience, the generic batteries I tried were completely dead after about 12 months of use.

The drawbacks of this model would be the relative lack of power. It’s not a super-powerful drill, especially for something like a construction job site, but it has enough juice to mix up to 10 gallon buckets of glaze, which is everything I need and might cover your needs too. For an art studio, whether home or educational, this is a great compact drill that does a lot and will last for years. That it has all of this in one of the cheaper models is also the reason why it’s my top pick.

Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill/Driver Kit

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Runner Up: Dewalt 12V Brushless 3/8” Drill/Driver

The DeWalt DCD701F2 Xtreme 12V Max Brushless 3/8 in. Cordless Drill/Driver

This is a very compact, powerful drill that does cost more than the top pick but comes with a more powerful and responsive brushless motor. Dewalt tools are always great quality and this one is no exception. Other reviewers love this drill, such as the Wirecutter, which named this their top pick for a small household drill. (And if you’d like to read an explainer on brushless motors, check out this article from Popular Mechanics.)

This kit includes the drill, two batteries, charging station, and a bag. Without the battery, this drill weighs 1.9 lbs. The DeWalt 12V Max battery system includes a variety of tools, including other drills, lights, and sensors, but not as many options as the Milwaukee M12 system.

The flat-bottomed battery that comes with this drill also allows it to stand up. With the Milwaukee, you’d have to order the extended capacity battery for that feature.

DeWalt makes some other entry-level drills that are cheaper than this drill and seem suitable for a studio, but they have very mixed reviews. This model does cost more but the brushless motor should provide more torque and hopefully last longer. The compact size of this drill makes it an attractive option for any studio, as space is always at a premium.

In the end, you have to decide if the extra money for this drill is worth it. It’s a great option and one that I heartily recommend.

DeWalt DCD701F2 12V Brushless 3/8” Drill/Driver

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Third Pick: Bosch PS31 or PS32 3/8” Drill/Drivers

The third pick is two different Bosch drills that match many of the specifications of the top two picks. The cheaper PS31 model is similar to the Milwaukee M12, and the PS32 option has a brushless motor like the DeWalt. Both are great drills that will work well, depending on your needs and price range.

The Bosch PS31 3/8 Drill kit with drill, two batteries, charger, and case.

Bosch PS31 3/8” Drill/Driver

This compact drill is similar in many ways to the top pick with a 3/8” inch chuck, variable speeds, and the kit comes with two small batteries. Without a battery, the drill weighs 2.1 lbs. This drill was picked by the Wirecutter as the runner up for their best household drill, and it generally has favorable reviews on Amazon and other sites. Some complain about the ergonomics, however, and an uneven balance. But Bosch tools are generally high quality and this drill will do everything you need to do. This is a great drill, but I prefer the Milwaukee for the wider variety of tool options that comes with the M12 system.

Bosch PS31 3/8” Drill/Driver Kit

Bosch PS32 3/8” Drill/Driver with Brushless Motor

The Bosch PS32 3/8 Brushless Drill Driver kit. Note that the motor area is slightly larger than the Bosch PS31 but the two drills have about the same weight.

The PS32 has many of the same specs and design as the PS31 but is a stepped-up model with a brushless motor that should provide more torque and longer battery life. Head to head, it’s a very similar to the DeWalt drill mentioned above, so choosing this comes down to design and other features. Without a battery, the bare drill weighs 2 lbs and the kit comes with two batteries, charging station, and bag. Personally, I would go with the DeWalt for an entry-level brushless drill but many people love Bosch tools. This PS32 drill was named as a top pick recently by Consumer Reports. It’s not my top pick, but it will do the job for you. Bosch doesn’t have as many tools that use the same batteries in their product line, so if you were looking to start an expandable set of studio tools that utilize the same batteries, you’d want to consider other manufacturers such as DeWalt or Milwaukee.

Bosch PS32 3/8” Drill/Driver with Brushless Motor

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Other Drill Options

The main thing I use drills for is mixing glazes. All the drills reviewed above will do a great job mixing 1 to 5 gallons of glaze, and they have enough power for a 10 gallon bucket of glaze. But if your studio is full of lots of 10 gallon buckets, you may want to get a more powerful cordless drill, or think about going with a corded drill. In general, these more powerful drills weigh more and the designs get more awkward. You’ll have to think through who is using your studio and if they are able to handle the size of the larger drills.

DeWalt 20V 1/2” Brushless Drill/Driver

For a more powerful cordless drill, the DeWalt 20V Max 1/2” Drill Driver Kit is really great. It’s a step up in power, and will accommodate larger mixing blades. It is quite a bit larger and heavier, weighing 3.4 lbs. This is 1.5 lbs heavier than the DeWalt model reviewed above, but with the heavier weight you will get a larger motor with more power. There’s even an option with bluetooth connectivity, which is mostly useful if you lose your drill or for jobsite inventory management.

Milwaukee M18 1/2” Brushless Drill Driver

The Milwaukee M18 1/2” model is also another powerful cordless drill. The kit clocks in at a lower price than its competitors, but that’s because the kit has just has one battery! So if you go this route, definitely factor in the cost of an extra battery. Battery aside, you’ll get a great drill that packs a punch in a well-built design. Without a battery, this drill weighs 2.5lbs, which is just a half pound more than the M12 model. Milwaukee has been able to squeeze more torque and power into a drill without much added weight.

Milwaukee M18 1/2” Brushless Drill/Driver

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Mixing Blades and Accessories for Your Drill

With your drill, you’ll need bits, screws, and mixer blades to put it to work. Here’s what I recommend:

DRILL BITS AND SCREWS

Any quality brand of screws and drill bits should get the job done. But just like drills, there are tons of options out there. Your local hardware store might be the easiest way to see what you need in person, but for shopping online, here are some links:

Drill bits: This basic 14-piece set from DeWalt is a great place to start.

Screwdriver set and bits: This basic set from DeWalt covers all the basics.

DIAMOND BITS

Hollow Core Diamond Drill Bits from Neiko

Diamond bits really help if you are working with glass, tile, hard plastic, or ceramic. For glazed ceramics, diamond bits are your only option for cleanly drilling a hole.

This 5 piece set of diamond-dusted, hollow core bits from Neiko has decent quality despite being less than $10. It will cut holes right through bisqueware (make sure to do it under running water) and it will also work on glazed ware. Just be slow and steady when using these on glazed ware, and use proper protection such as goggles.

SMALL MIXER BLADE

To mix pint jars and small cups, the Jiffy LM10 Mixer Blade is just the right size. It’s 10 1/4” long with a 1 1/4” head.

The small Jiffy LM10 Mixer Blade

MEDIUM MIXER BLADE

For one to two gallons, I prefer a helix mixer designed for 1 gallon buckets. It’s cheaper than a metal blade but it can really mix. As long as you don’t grind the plastic blades against buckets, these economical blades should last for years and also work well for jobs such as mixing plaster.

Helix mixer blade for 1 to 2 gallon buckets

LARGE MIXER BLADE

For 5 or 10 gallon buckets, the Jiffy ES mixer blade is the way to go. It has a 20 1/2” long, 3/8” shaft and the head is 3 3/4” wide.

Jiffy ES Mixer Blade closeup.

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Cordless Vs Corded Drills

A corded and cordless drill each have their advantages and disadvantages. I like to have both but most people could get by with just one. If you are looking for a corded drill, check out our recommendations here. Here’s some things to consider when choosing a drill:

Advantages of a Cordless Drill

• No cord! You’re free to take the drill anywhere. This is especially good for tight locations, or if it’s not easy to access a power source.

• Usually lighter: Cordless drills are designed to be carried around. The models reviewed here are compact and light, which makes these drills more easier to use for everyone.

• Good for drilling, but especially good as screwdrivers.

Disadvantages of a Cordless Drill

• More expensive: The batteries and charging station add a cost that you don’t have with corded drills.

• Less power: Not as much power as a corded drill, and the power may wane as the battery loses charge.

• Less torque: This may be good in some cases, such as for use as a screwdriver. But cordless drills are not as good for loosening stuck bolts, or for situations where lots of power or torque are needed.

• You will need to stop to change or recharge batteries.

• Future expense: batteries wear out and need to be replaced.

• More waste: Worn out batteries have to be recycled or disposed.

Considerations for all drills

• Keyless or keyed chucks? Generally, a keyed chuck can be locked in super tight, but you’ll need to use (and not lose) the key. Keyless chucks are more convenient but can wear out

• How often do you use the drill? If it’s infrequent, you may find that a cordless drill always has a dead battery when you need to use it.

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BACKGROUND

I have used tons of different drills over the years, and this review is based on that experience along with looking at many recent reviews of cordless drill reviews and every other source I could find, include user reviews on Amazon and checking out models in person. In the studio, I like to use the best tools at the lowest price. What that means in practice is I avoid the super-cheap brands such as Black and Decker or Ryobi, and will generally choose the base models of top quality brands such as Milwaukee, Bosch, and DeWalt. I totally understand the need for a powerful, $200+ drill for a construction job site. But in my experience, the entry-level drills are powerful enough for most uses, and they are lighter, more compact, and easier for most people to grip. They work for me and I think they’ll work for you too.

Other Considerations when choosing a cordless drill:

Beyond the drill, there are a few other considerations when selecting a cordless drill:

• Committing to one company / battery style? Batteries vary by manufacturer, so you may have the option to swap batteries between multiple devices. This can save money, but also locks you in to that brand. Having multiple tools with one model of battery and charger can simplify your life.

• Off-brand batteries: These are available for most brands. My advice is to avoid them as they usually wear out faster and don’t hold a charge as long. Be careful of aftermarket kits on Amazon. Many of the cheaper kit options combine brand name drills with cheaper, aftermarket batteries.

• Size of the chuck and what attachments you will be using. What kinds of mixer blades and bits will you be using? Make sure they will fit the drill. The drills reviewed above usually have a 3/8” chuck. Only rarely have I needed a 1/2” chuck to accommodate larger shaft sizes.

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Wrap-Up

This post covered top picks for cordless drills, as well as some useful tools and accessories. My top pick was the Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill/Driver. It’s a well-made drill that is versatile, comfortable, lightweight, and is still powerful enough for most uses. With this drill, I keep a variety of mixer blades, as well as drill bits, screwdriver bits, and hollow-core diamond bits.

A cordless drill is a vital tool in the studio. What do you like to use? Let us know your favorite models and accessories in the comments.

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Tools for Home and Studio

There are many tools that are equally valuable at home or in the studio. Sometimes, it seems like most tools that are useful in a kitchen can also be put to use in the studio.

This post includes reviews of a few favorites that will hopefully give you some ideas for new tools to use, either at home or in the studio. What do you use in both the kitchen and studio? Please share in the comments.

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Swedish Notched Rolling Pin

This notched, diamond-pattern wooden rolling pin or kruskavel can be used in the studio to roll out textured clay slabs. It’s especially useful for making test tiles. Or put it to use at home making crackers. It’s designed to make Swedish knaackebrods but the simple pattern looks great on a variety of baked goods.

Uses:

At home: roll out dough crackers, flatbreads, Swedish knaackebrods, or add notches to baked goods
In the studio: add the diamond texture to clay slabs and test tiles

Linden Sweden Deep Notched Rolling Pin

Swedish Notched Rolling Pin

Patterned Wooden Rolling Pins

This set has 10 wooden rolling pins with a variety of patterns. It’s is probably more useful in the studio than at home, but it can be used on crackers and flatbreads just as easily as clay slabs. These roller are relatively small, ranging from 3.5 to about 5 inches wide.

Uses:

At home: patterned crackers
In the studio: textured slabs, roll patterns on to thrown pots, create textured slabs to add to other pieces.

10-pack of textured clay rollers

Set of 10 Wooden Pattern Rollers
This set is listed twice on amazon. Find it here or try this link.

Wooden Meat Tenderizer Mallet

An all-wood meat tenderizer mallet is another texture tool for the studio, or a useful addition to your kitchen. Wood is less likely to stick to clay than metal, so this all-wood option is the way to go.

Uses:

At home: tenderizing steaks, fish, poultry, etc. Great for making flattened chicken breasts.
In the studio: similar to the diamond-pattern of the Swedish rolling pin, this is also a great tool for making patterns on individual test tiles

Double Side Heavyweight Wooden Meat Tenderizer Mallet

Round Cutters in Graduated Sizes

The Kayaso nesting round metal cutter set

This set of circular cutters is another tool that is equally at home in the kitchen or studio. Great for biscuits or other round baking needs, it’s also perfect for making circles out of clay slabs. The simple design makes it easy to clean, and the container helps organize the pieces for storage.

There are also fluted circular cutters, which can add some nice patterns to your work. It’s best to stick with firm metal cutters, the softer plastic options are often not strong enough for the kitchen or studio.

Uses:
At home: cut biscuits, bread, English muffins, fondant decoration
In the studio: cut circular slabs, trace circles

Nesting Round Metal Cutters Set
There are name brand and many generic versions of this type of tool. Pictured is the Kayaso version, but there are other options such as this or this 6 piece option from Wilton.

For a fluted option, try this 11-piece set from Jokumo, or a 6-piece set from Wilton.

Wooden Thread Spiral Rolling Pin

Another simple but useful tool, this wooden rolling pin will add texture to your baking or clay projects. All wood is great because it’s less likely to stick to clay.

Uses:

At home: add texture to cookies, dumplings, pastas
In the studio: add texture to slabs. Great for adding texture and then stretching

Spiral Threaded Wooden Rolling Pin

Silicone Mats for baking or studio use

The Amazon Basics silicone mat

A non-stick work surface is vital if you are baking or working with clay. Products like Silpats or silicone baking mats give you that flexibility and are a tool for the home or studio. It’s handy to have these around for working on craft projects, or handbuilding with clay.

If you are looking for ceramic-specific work mats, the Ceramic Shop in Philadelphia has a variety of options. Those are nice options, but a silicone baking mat is often cheaper, almost as stiff, and can be used in a variety of ways.

Amazon Basics Silicone Baking Mat

Green Bell G-1008 Nail Clippers

The Green Bell G-1008 Nail Clipper

If you are cooking or working in the studio, long nails can get in the way. Nail clippers may seem like the most mundane thing, but upgrading to a pair of Green Bell clippers shows how just about any other clippers is not as good.

I discovered the Green Bell Clippers years ago via this rhapsodic review, and they truly are the best nail clippers I’ve ever used. Made in Japan, these clippers effortlessly cut nails with a perfect tension. They also have a built-in nail file and are constructed with a weight, finish, and somewhat hefty quality that is just a step above any other nail clipper. Sure, they are now about $21 but you’ll most likely never need another clipper.

Green Bell Nail Clippers
I recommend the Green Bell G-1008 at amazon. For a smaller, narrower option, try the Green Bell G-1205

GorillaPod Phone Tripod

GorillaPod GripTight Pro

A flexible phone tripod is a handy tool to have anywhere these days, but especially at home or in the studio. Need to set up your phone to read a recipe? Trying to capture the perfect selfie? Or maybe you’re getting into timelapse recording of your work? This is the perfect tool for that.

GorillaPod Mini

There are numerous knockoff options, many that will do a fine job, but I have been very happy with the original version of this product, the Joby GorillaPod. I frequently use the phone option, and I have the larger 3K kit that can hold my big DSLR camera. They do cost a bit more, but Joby products stand the test of time.

Currently, there are two options for phone holder. The pro-grade phone stand that retails for almost $60, and a newer mini option that is $15 or less. The pro-grade model gives you longer legs that will allow the tripod to grip unusual objects, such as a stick or pole. The smaller option is good for a simple tripod or to stand on an uneven surface, but I wouldn’t expect it to grip too tightly.

GripTight GorilliaPod Phone Stand / Tripod

What are the essential tools that work in your home or studio? Please share in the comments.

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The Best 10 Gallon Plastic Bucket

10 gallon buckets are a great way to store glaze and dry materials in a studio. The larger size accommodates bigger pieces for glaze dipping, and a 10 gallon bucket will easily hold about 50 lbs of any dry material, such as plaster or glaze ingredients. It’s important, however, to have a sturdy, long-lasting bucket.

The best 10 gallon bucket for glazes and other studio uses is the Carlisle Bronco 10 Gallon Bucket. It has thick walls and smooth interior. Other buckets, such as the new version of the Rubbermaid Brute 10 gallon, have upraised interior fluting that get in the way of mixing glazes or dipping work. For this reason, the Carlisle Bronco 10 gallon bucket is our top pick.

This post will review a few 10 gallon bucket options, describe the problems I ran into using the Rubbermaid bucket, and explain why I prefer the Carlisle Bronco.

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Table of Contents

1. Carlisle Bronco 10 Gallon Bucket

2. Rubbermaid Brute 10 Gallon Bucket

3. Rubbermaid Commercial 10 Gallon Ice Bucket

4. Summary

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Carlisle Bronco 10 Gallon Bucket

The Carlisle Bronco is the best 10 gallon bucket I’ve used. It has sturdy walls, a smooth interior, and will be a long-lasting addition to your studio. It looks like the “old style” Rubbermaid Brute, and is virtually identical to the more expensive Rubbermaid Ice Bucket. Most importantly, it has a completely smooth interior that allows for easy glaze mixing or scooping of dry materials.

The Carlisle Bronco 10 Gallon is 16 inches in diameter and 17 inches tall. Carlisle makes lids for 10 gallon buckets, or a Rubbermaid 10-gallon lid will fit perfectly. It’s also available in a variety of colors, including white, black, gray, blue, red, green, yellow, and purple.

It may seem like a simple thing, but having the right bucket really can make a difference in the functionality of your studio, and for that reason, go with the Carlisle Bronco.

The Carlisle Bronco 10 Gallon Bucket is available in a variety of colors.

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Rubbermaid Brute 10 Gallon Bucket

The Rubbermaid Brute 10 Gallon Bucket. Note the fluting on the side: good for trash can liners, bad for glaze mixing

I’m generally a fan of most Rubbermaid commercial products, but I can’t recommend the Rubbermaid Brute 10 Gallon Bucket as a glaze bucket or for dry materials storage. This is now advertised as a garbage / trash bucket and that is only what it is for. It has fluting down the sides and upraised reinforcement in the base. This allows it to be made from less plastic (which is good) but the bumps and exposed plastic corners on the inside do not work well with a ceramic studio.

I ordered one of these as a glaze bucket for the busy community studio I manage, and within a few months, a student drilled a hole in the bottom. The hole was made with a cordless drill with a Jiffy ES-21 mixer blade, and this metal blade and the upraised base on the Brute did not work well together. (See pics below)

If you need a trash can, this is a lightweight option that is cheaper than the Carlisle Bronco. Just don’t plan to use it for anything else.

Comparing the Carlisle Bronco and Rubbermaid Brute

Here’s two pictures showing the hole that was drilled in the upraised section of the Brute Bucket:

Below are two photos showing the Bronco (the clean bucket) in comparison to the Rubbermaid Brute. Note the upraised base of the Brute and the fluting, while the Carlisle Bronco is smooth inside.

The Rubbermaid Brute (dirty) alongside our new Carlisle Bronco 10 gallon bucket.

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Rubbermaid Brute Ice Bucket

A very similar option to the Carlisle Bronco is the Rubbermaid Brute 10 Gallon Ice Bucket. It’s confusing that Rubbermaid has two 10 gallon bucket options on the market, but note that this is the “old” style with no fluting etc, and a smooth interior. It’s basically the same as the Carlisle Bronco, but costs a bit more.

Like the other buckets here, it is 17 inches tall and around 16 inches wide. This is a great option for a glaze bucket, but I’d save a few bucks and go with the Carlisle.

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10 Gallon Bucket Accessories

The Rubbermaid Sliding Lid and Scoop is available for 10, 20, and 32 gallon buckets.

Sliding Lid: A standard lid is fine but the Rubbermaid sliding lid (pictured at right) is an interesting option for storing dry materials. Designed for food-service storage, it would also be great for glaze materials and dry clay storage.

Glaze paddles: The smooth, even interior of the Bronco will work great with powered drill mixers as well as paddles, such as the MKM Glaze Paddle.

Drills: A cordless drill is usually just powerful enough to mix a 10 gallon bucket of liquid, but a corded drill will definitely get the job done. For our complete review of cordless drills, click here. For corded drills, click here.

Glaze mixing accessories: For a guide to glaze-mixing tools and accessories, click here.

Finally, here’s a how-to about mixing glazes from scratch.

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Summary

I’m always on the hunt for the best buckets and tools, so if anything changes, I will update this post. But for now, the Carlisle Bronco is the 10 gallon bucket I will be using in my studio.

Do you have other favorite options for 10 gallon buckets? Please share in the comments.

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The Best Hand Cream for Art and Ceramic Studios

For this post, 10 hand creams were tested to determine the best product for potters, sculptors, artists, or anyone who works in a workshop or studio. Based on my experience in ceramic studios, I wanted to find the hand cream that would stick around, keep hands healthy, and not interfere with work. A few creams are clearly superior.

Top picks:

• O’Keeffe’s Working Hands Cream (shop at Amazon) is the top pick. It is non-greasy, soaks in quickly, and sticks around. It’s got a bit of wax in it but doesn’t seem sticky or thick. It’s also affordable and does exactly what it says: protect working hands. That’s why it’s the top pick for a studio cream.

• Aquaphor Healing Ointment (shop at Amazon) is the next pick. It can be a bit greasy for some uses, but it sticks around through intense wet work and a little bit goes a long way.

• The third pick is Weleda Skin Food (shop at Amazon). It’s a rich, luxurious cream that is a pleasure to use, smells great, and has become the hand cream I use at home to start and end the day.

Full reviews are below but first, some history: For more than 10 years, my go-to studio hand cream was Kerodex 71. It’s a non-greasy, water-repellent cream that contains kaolin clay, mineral oil, and paraffin wax. This makes it a long-lasting, effective barrier cream for workshops and studios. Alas, it seems that it is no longer in production. (Please MedTech Products Inc. of Tarrytown, NY, bring it back!)

To find a replacement, I tried a bunch of creams designed as barrier, hand creams, and “invisible gloves,” along with a few other favorites, and did a head-to-head test. Results and favorites are below. Please note, almost any of these creams will be better than using nothing. Skin, hands, and studio tasks vary so my hope is that these reviews guide you to the perfect hand cream for your situation.

EDIT: After making the initial picks, I posted this in a few pottery forums and got a LOT of feedback. Many agreed with the top picks, but potters have a lot of thoughts on this topic. I’ve included some of the most recommended products at the end of this post, and plan to test more for a future review. In general, my favorite studio hand cream is something that contain a bit of wax or paraffin, such as O’Keeffe’s Working Hands or Kerodex.

Compare prices on the top 3 picks:

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Table of Contents

• Top Pick: O’Keeffe’s Working Hands Cream

• Second: Aquaphor Healing Ointment

• Third: Weleda Skin Food

• Honorable Mention: Aveeno Daily Moisturizing, Corn Husker’s Lotion, Workman’s Friend,

• Not quite right: Gloves in a Bottle, Invisible Glove, and Ghost Glove

• The (discontinued) Old Favorite: Kerodex 71

• Some tips, recipes, and ideas on healing cracked, dried out hands

• Other suggestions for hand creams

• Wrap-Up: The Best Hand Cream for Artists

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Top Pick: O’Keeffe’s Working Hands Cream

After testing, the top pick is O’Keeffe’s Working Hands Cream. It is a moisturizing cream that also contains a bit of paraffin, making it an ideal replacement for my previous favorite, Kerodex 71. This cream is quick to dry, non-greasy and had no smell. In testing, it stuck around through multiple washes. During heavier uses, like throwing pots, the cream was gone almost immediately from palms and fingertips, but it did stick around on knuckles and the backs of hands. There is no cream that survives heavy use such as direct contact with clay, but it was quick and easy to re-apply O’Keeffe’s throughout the day and it kept skin healthy. Throughout the testing period, this became the lotion returned to most frequently.

Drawbacks: There were no problems or concerns with this cream. It’s economical, does what you need it to do, and works as advertised. This is why it is the top pick.

O’Keeffe’s Working Hands Ingredients: Water, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Isopropyl Myristate, Ceteareth-20, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Aluminum Starch, Octenylsuccinate, Sodium Hydroxide, Acrylates/CID-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Paraffin, Dimethicone, Propylene Glycol, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Diazolidynyl, Urea

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Second Pick: Aquaphor Healing Ointment

The second pick is Aquaphor Healing Ointment. If you’ve never tried it, it is similar to Vaseline or petroleum jelly, but contains a few other ingredients such as Lanolin Alcohol and Glycerin. It will help protect your hands and can be used on the rest of your body too. It’s also used to temporarily protect minor cuts, scrapes, or burns, and seems to be a popular recommendation from pediatricians. It works on babies and kids, and it works in the studio too.

Aquaphor goes on easily but does stay a bit greasy. During testing, it stayed on through normal use, providing a long-lasting protection that could be felt throughout the course of a few hours. Although it costs more than petroleum jelly, it’s still an economical option because you just need a small dab at a time. And the extra ingredients make it a superior ointment to generic petroleum jelly. It’s a solid option and for some of our friends, it’s their favorite studio hand cream and protectant.

Drawbacks: This is one to avoid if you are concerned about getting grease on your projects, such as working with ceramic bisqueware or drawing / painting. It does stay a bit “wet” or oily longer than most creams, but will eventually absorb into the skin.

Aquaphor Ingredients: Petrolatum, Mineral Oil, Ceresin, Lanolin Alcohol, Panthenol, Glycerin, Bisabolol

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Third Pick: Weleda Skin Food

The third pick is Weleda Skin Food. Described as an “ultra-rich cream,” this is definitely the creamiest, most luxurious product reviewed. It smells great too—kind of a floral / essential oil smell that is very pleasant. The beeswax makes it similar to a barrier cream, but it’s not advertised that way. It’s just a really nice, thick cream that works great in the studio or at home. If it wasn’t on the more expensive side, I would rank this first or second. Through this testing it became a new favorite cream for day-to-day use at home, especially for hands and dry patches like elbows.

Drawbacks: Like Aquaphor, this cream stays “wet” or oily on your skin for a bit. Definitely something to avoid if you wanted to immediately begin working with paper, canvas, or bisqueware, as some oil could transfer to those surfaces. It’s also the most expensive cream reviewed. For those reasons, it ranked this third in this review.

Weleda Skin Food Ingredients: Water, sunflower seed oil, lanolin, sweet almond oil, alcohol, beeswax, glyceryl linoleate, hydrolyzed beeswax, fragrance from natural essential oils, pansy extract, rosemary leaf extract, chamomile flower extract, calendula flower extract, cholesterol, limonene, linalool, geraniol, citral, coumarin.

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Honorable Mention: Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Lotion

Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Lotion is the top pick in the Honorable Mention category. If you are looking for just one lotion for studio and home, this would be it. It applies easily and absorbs quickly, doesn’t feel greasy, is economical, and the fragrance-free option is a plus. All in all, a great daily lotion for hands and skin. One bonus: It’s not advertised except for a small mention on the bottle, but it contains dimethicone, a silicone-polymer skin protectant that is used in more expensive barrier creams.

Drawbacks: This is a standard daily lotion and is thinner than a skin cream. It doesn’t contain any wax or thicker ingredients and is not formulated for a high-intensity use such as O’Keeffe’s Working Hands. But it’s a fine lotion and does the job.

Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Lotion Ingredients: Active Ingredient: Dimethicone 1.2% Inactive Ingredients: Water, Glycerin, Distearyldimonium Chloride, Petrolatum, Isopropyl Palmitate, Cetyl Alcohol, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Chloride.

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Corn Husker’s Lotion

The next honorable mention is Corn Huskers Lotion, which I have seen listed as a potter’s favorite on a few online forums. Think of it as gel-like, almost-liquid version of petroleum jelly. Unlike petroleum jelly or Aquaphor, it absorbs quickly into the skin. After applying, your skin feels smoother and not exactly slippery, but that definitely seems like an effect of the second ingredient, glycerin.

This is also a product that you might add to your throwing water when working on the pottery wheel (some people use baby oil). I don’t do the baby-oil-in-throwing water, but some swear that this addition of oil to the water keeps their hands from getting beat up.

Drawbacks: This product has a baby powder smell that sticks around for a bit. Not my favorite odor. For that reason, it was dropped it into the honorable mention category.

Corn Huskers Lotion Ingredients: Water, Glycerin, SD alcohol 40-B, algin, oleoyl sarcosine, methylparaben, triethanolamine, cyamopsis tetragonoloba (guar) gum, fragrance, calcium sulfate, calcium chloride

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Workman’s Friend Barrier Hand Cream

Workman’s Friend Barrier Cream certainly seemed like it could be a great replacement for Kerodex 71, but after testing, I’m not sure this product lives up to that billing. It’s definitely a cream and has a thicker feel and application than a lotion such as Aveeno, but for the extra cost and all the extra words on the package, it just didn’t live up to the hype. It has 1% dimethicone, a silicone-polymer skin protectant and lubricant, but so does Aveeno Daily Moisturing. It’s also about double the price of the top pick. That said, it is a nice cream that I did enjoy using.

Drawbacks: More expensive for what seems to be a slightly thicker cream version of Aveeno lotion, it also doesn’t have the advertised barrier capabilities that the top three picks definitely have. This is a cream I’ll use but wouldn’t buy again as there are cheaper, better options.

Workman’s Friend Barrier Cream Ingredients: Deionized Water, Steric Acid, Propylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Isopropyl Palminate, Ricinus Communic (Castor) Seed Oil, Cyclopentasiloxane, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Mineral Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Xantham Gum, Disodium EDTA, Acrylates Copolymer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract.

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Not Quite Right:

Gloves in a Bottle

Like the Workman’s Friend Hand Cream, I had high hopes for Gloves in a Bottle as I have seen it for sale at many ceramic supply shops. But it did not deliver. It’s a lotion, not a cream, and it applies easily. It takes three to four minutes to dry completely on your skin and for a few of those, it has a slightly tacky or sticky quality. Taking this long to dry definitely involves some planning. After it dries, it’s seems a lot like a regular lotion and didn’t have any special sort of effect. I don’t feel it’s worth paying extra for a product like this.

Drawbacks: Maybe it was just my skin, but upon repeated washing, Gloves in a Bottle had an astringent effect and seemed to promote drying in my fingertips. I double checked this effect over multiple days, and it dried out my fingertips each time. I just did not have good luck with this product.

Gloves in a Bottle Ingredients: Purified Water, Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Myristate, Stearyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Xantham Gum, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, VP/ Eicosene Copolymer, Steareth-21, Phenoxyethanol (preservative)

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Not Quite Right Part 2: Ghost Glove and Invisible Glove

Ghost Glove and Invisible Glove seem like great (albeit almost identical) products. But they weren’t what I was looking for. They are basically thick, spreadable soap that will protect your hands when you’re working with a greasy substance. When you’re ready to clean up, boom, everything washes right off. For a wet use, like ceramics or plaster, they would wash off right away. And if you were working with dry media, these products could easily rub off onto paper or canvas.

Drawbacks: Great products for working with greasy, oil substances. Neither contains any sort of moisturizer. Seemed like fine products, but not right for us or for a ceramics or sculpture studio. Seems more for a machine or automotive shop, and could be a good choice for artists working with oil paint.

Ghost Glove Ingredients: Glycerin, Water, Sodium Silicate, Soap, Emulsifier, Fragrance, Preservative

Invisible Glove Ingredients: Water, Glycerin, Sodium Silicate, Soap, Fragrance

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The (Discontinued) Old Favorite: Kerodex 71

I’ll close out this post with some pictures and info on Kerodex 71. I haven’t seen this for sale in a few years. Looking at the ingredients, it really stands out that kaolin (aka china clay) is the second ingredient. Combine that with mineral, petrolatum, and paraffin, and you’ve got a great barrier cream that also moisturizes. If any hand cream manufacturers out there are reading this, bring it back!

Kerodex Ingredients: Water, Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, Paraffin, Ceteryl Alcohol, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Cetyl Alcohol, Zinc Oxide, Isopropyl Alcohol, Sodium Hexametaphosphate, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Cetrimonium Brodime, Calcium Carbonate, Iron Oxides

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Some tips, recipes, and ideas on healing cracked, dried out hands

If you have cracked or very dried out hands, here are some tips to get them healed. You may need to take a break from working with clay, especially intensive activities such as throwing, mixing glazes, or reclaiming clay.

Aquaphor or Vaseline under band aids, surgical gloves, or night-time gloves
If you have cracked fingertips or knuckles, apply petroleum jelly such as Aquaphor or Vaseline, and then cover it with a band-aid or night-time gloves. Alternately, put surgical gloves over the cream or lotion for about an hour.

Add Baby Lotion to Throwing Water
I haven’t tried but have heard good things! You could also try this with Corn Huskers Lotion. One thought is this might make your reclaim clay a bit stinky.

Mix Your Own Skin Lotion
This simple recipe was suggested was:

Mix in a blender:
16oz Vitamin E cream
16 oz Vaseline
27oz jar of Baby Lotion

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Other suggestions for hand creams

As mentioned at the top, I posted the first version of this review in a few pottery forums and got a LOT of suggestions. Potters have strong opinions about what works for them. I plan to test as many of these products as I can, and add them to this review in the future. Until then, here’s the feedback:

O’Keeffe’s Working Hands: Many commenters agreed with the top pick of O’Keeffe’s Working Hands cream. Some preferred the version in a tub, which they find to be a bit thicker. But overall, more commenters preferred O’Keeffe’s than any other product, echoing my endorsement. Many others wrote in to say that they also really like Weleda’s hand creams, such as Skin Food.

Bag Balm Ointment was the next most recommended hand cream. Some said it was a bit greasy, but that it works great. It has a simple, 4 part recipe and has been around for more than 100 years.

Potters Skin Butter from Cara Mae Skincare was the next most-recommended hand cream after Working Hands and Bag Balm. Originally developed in 2004 by a potter for other potters, it looks great for any kind of hard working hands! In addition to the website, you can find it on Etsy.

Burt’s Bees Hand Salve was also highly recommended. If you go with Burt’s Bees, some preferred the Hand Repair Cream.

A number of people replied to say that their favorite hand cream is just 100% Shea Butter. Easy and natural! Others preferred just straight coconut oil for their working hands.

The Body Shop Hemp Hand Protector also had a number of fans. This one is not cheap but it has ecstatic reviews on Amazon and other sites.

Cerave was also a popular mention. The Therapeutic Hand Cream seems ideal, but the company makes a variety of products.

Gold Bond Ultimate Healing Hand Cream had a number of fans.

Neutrogena Norwegian Formula Hand Cream also had some vocal fans.

The following products had just one or two people recommend them, but we are including the list here in the hopes it may help you identify the best hand cream for your situation.

A&D Ointment (yes, the diaper cream but works for wet hands too!)

Amlactin Body Cream

Cetaphil Cream

Crabtree & Evelyn Gardeners Hand Cream

Curel Ultra Healing Intensive Lotion

Du’It Tough Hands

Eucerin Original Healing Cream and Advanced Repair Hand Cream

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream

Hempworx Hand and Body Lotion

Kerasal Intensive Foot Repair

Kiehl’s Ultimate Strenght Hand Salve

L’Occitane Shea Butter Hand Cream

Lotil Original Cream

Lubriderm Daily Body and Hand Moisture

Lush Helping Hands

Malaleuca Renew Intensive Skin Therapy Lotion (commenter said this is also good for treating new tattoos)

Nivea Créme

Palmer’s Coconut Oil Formula Hand Cream

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Wrap-Up: The Best Hand Creams for Art and Ceramic Studios

In this post, I’ve shared results from testing 10 different hand creams. My favorite was O’Keeffe’s Working Hands Cream, followed by Aquaphor, and then Skin Food. Each of these moisturizes and protects your hands, and will stick around through some moderately heavy use such as throwing on the pottery wheel.

What hand creams or lotions do you use? Please share in the comments.

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How To Use and Clean Up Wax Resist in a Ceramics Studio

Brushes covered in wax. In this post, we’ll show you how to clean them with boiling water.

Wax resist is a great thing to use with ceramics and pottery. It gives you a lot of decorative glazing options, and is useful when glazing rims, lids, feet—anywhere you need to keep free of glaze. But inevitably, you will have to clean it up.

The best way to clean wax resist is with boiling water. Below is a step-by-step tutorial of how to clean your wax brushes and container. There’s also a review a favorite electric water kettle, and some tips of how to best use wax resist. The post will start with a review of wax resists.

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Table of Contents

• Our Favorite Wax Resist: Amaco Green Wax

• How to Use Wax: Tips and Tricks

• What You Can Do With Wax

• How to Clean Wax Brushes tutorial

• Our Favorite Electric Water Kettle

• Wrap-Up: Wax Resist Use and Clean Up

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The Best Wax Resist

The best wax resist is the green Amaco Wax Resist available in pints and gallon jugs. It’s a premium wax resist that doesn’t peel or fall off when using on top of other glazes for decorative effects. You can buy it by the gallon, which is more economical. One gallon lasts 12 to 15 months in a busy community studio, so a pint is probably an appropriate amount for an individual studio. This resist does everything you need a wax to do and the green dye makes it easy to see on bisqueware or if it drips on a counter top. Out of the bottle, it’s a bit thick so it’s recommended to water it down by about 1/3 to 1/2 with hot tap water.

To store the watered-down wax, use an old container that can also hold your designated wax brush. To make cleanup easier, put a plastic plate or take-out-lid underneath, and and make a notched lid to go around the brushes to prevent the wax from drying. As needed, top up the jar with more wax and water. Inevitably, the brushes and sides of the jar will get wax build up. Below is a tutorial on how to clean this with boiling water.

Buying by the gallon and using a jar is a trade-off. It’s economical to buy in bulk, but the wax jar does take some maintenance. For a busy academic or community studio, this is an easier system to use and maintain than a pint jar with a threaded, screw-on lid. In most shared studios, those threads never stay clean which means the cap is never screwed on tight which can mean…ugh…semi-frequent spills of a pint of wax resist. You definitely don’t want a pint of wax resist all over your floor.

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How to Use Wax: Tips and Tricks

This post is mainly about cleaning up wax resist, but here’s a quick overview of how to use wax resist:

Some recommend painting wax resist on the bottom of every pot, but I do not. Instead, think about your piece: will it be easier to clean up your glaze with or without wax? If it’s a large, flat form like a plate, you probably should use wax to cover the bottom. If it’s a small foot ring, it will be easier and faster to clean with a sponge. The key with wax is that you don’t want to unnecessarily waste time, material, or energy because of drips or simply using wax where you don’t need it.

• As mentioned above, watered-down wax resist is preferred because it dries faster and leads to less build-up on your ware. A thin coat is all you need. Mix 1/3 hot tap water to 2/3 wax resist and stir. You might be able to go thinner! Test what works for you.

• When applying, be careful to not create drips or puddles where you don’t want wax to go. To remove wax, you may have to re-bisque fire a piece. Alternately, you can remove by sanding or scraping, or by pouring boiling water on the bisqueware. The problem is that wax gets into the pores of your bisqueware, so it can be hard to remove.

• Allow wax to dry completely before glazing. This can take 15-30 minutes.

• Wax can be great as a decorative tool, especially on top of one glaze to create a resist effect in combination with a second coat. Cheaper wax resist options often peel up or don’t work on top of a chalky, dried glaze. That’s one reason to use the green Amaco wax. It works on top of every glaze I’ve tested and stays in place with no peeling.

• Keep in mind that wax burns off anywhere from about 200–500 degrees. It doesn’t do anything to protect your kiln shelves. As this burning can create some smell and a small amount of smoke, it’s best to minimize wax use if your kilns are indoors. Definitely vent your kilns!

Other ideas for wax in the studio

• Paint over thin areas of greenware to slow the drying of the clay.

• Lid Wax: add 1/2 cup Alumina Hydrate to 1 pint wax to create a special wax for firing lids on pots. When the wax burns off, the powdered, refractory alumina hydrate will stay behind, leaving a chalky resist. This will hopefully prevent glaze runs, etc, that could cause the lid to stick to the rim of the pot.

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How to Clean Wax Brushes and Jars: A Tutorial

To prevent contamination and keep things efficient and functional, designate 3 or 4 brushes of different sizes as wax brushes. These brushes sit in the wax resist pot, and over time, wax builds up on the sides of the brushes and the rim of the wax jar. Here is how to clean them.

Step 1

Brushes and jar with built-up wax resist.

Here is a picture of a wax jar with dirty brushes. The wax jar is a wide-mouth, recycled underglaze jar. For brushes, try using economical 1/2” chip brushes, and a few smaller brushes.

Step 2

Move brushes to a small container. Pour boiling water over the brushes.

If you have heavy wax build up on your brushes, you may want to cut off and dispose of this build up with a fettling knife.

Then, move brushes to a small container, such as a recycled yogurt cup. Boil water and pour over the brushes. Swirl the brushes in the water and use the brushes to clean the sides of the other brushes.

Step 3

One brush cleaned, four more left.

Here’s a picture of the cleaning in progress and then the cleaned brushes.

After you’ve cleaned all your brushes, set them aside. The water and cup you’ve used for cleaning can be thrown away. (Don’t pour wax down your drain!) Or, let the water cool, remove and dispose of the cooled wax, and then clean the container. If possible, you could save this one container to reuse over and over as your wax-brush cleaning container.

The brushes after cleaning.

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Step 4

Removing built-up wax resist

Next, it’s time to clean the cup. Using a fettling knife, cut off built-up wax from the rim and inside of the cup. If needed, pour out any wax into a reserve container, and use boiling water to clean the entire cup or jar.

Another option, if you have heavy build up, is to switch to a new container. The wide-mouth underglaze jars from Spectrum underglazes are great for a wax container.

Step 5

After cleaning the brushes and jar, refill the cup and you’re ready to go. Pictured here are a fresh glaze cup and lid. Depending on how often you clean, you might need a new wax cup about once a year or you could completely clean it and keep it going longer than that.

To conclude: Cleaning wax resist with boiling water is quick, easy, and effective.

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Our Favorite Electric Water Kettle

The electric kettle and base

The kettle with the blue "on" light

Inside the kettle

To clean wax resist, you’ll need boiling water and an excellent kettle is the Chef’s Choice Cordless Electric Kettle. This is not a comprehensive review of kettles, but this kettle is great. In community studio I manage, it’s been in heavy use for almost 18 months and has had no problems.

Here’s what I love about it:

• Sturdy construction and design. Simple on / off switch with light

• Kettle is cordless

• Base has storage area for excess cord.

• Easy to clean

• Inside is all metal

• Boils water quickly

This is a great kettle that does exactly what you need it to do. If you don’t have a water kettle in your studio, it’s a simple addition that is great for making tea or instant soups. Adding the option of hot tea can really augment and improve the culture of your studio.

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Wrap-Up: Wax Resist Use and Clean Up in a Ceramic Studio

Wax resist is a great tool for a ceramics studio. It takes some clean up, should be used only as needed, and my recommendation is to use a premium wax resist such as the Amaco green wax resist. To apply, try using chip brushes or other simple, cheap brushes.

It’s easiest to clean up with boiling water and this tutorial provides some tips, tricks, and ideas of how to do that.

What do you use wax resist for? Do you have a favorite brand? Please share in the comments.

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The Best Oils and Lubricants for Art Studios

A good lubricating oil is a must-have in any studio. One might be enough, but stocking two or three different oils allows you to take advantage of the unique properties and features of each lubricant. This post covers some favorite oils and how to use them.

My go-to studio lubricant is the Boeshield T-9 Waterproof Lubricant. It’s a superior lubricant with a mix of solvent and paraffin wax originally developed by Boeing for aircraft components. It sprays on and dries to a stable, long-term, non-greasy film. Bicyclists love this product but it’s got a wide variety of uses. I use it on everything and it’s just a cleaner, longer-lasting, and superior lubricant. For this reason it’s my number one recommendation.

A full review of studio oils and lubricants is below.

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Table of Contents

• Top Pick: Boeshield T-9

• Advantages of the Boeshield T-9

• Wahl Hair Clipper Blade Oil

• WD-40

• 3-in-1 Oil

• Other Oils and Lubricants

• Wrap-Up: The Best Oil and Lubricant for an Art Studio

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Top Pick: Boeshield T-9

Developed by Boeing for the aviation industry, Boeshield T-9 Waterproof Lubricant is an all-purpose aerosol spray lubricant that is a combination of solvent with paraffin wax. It does not contain Teflon, silicone, fluorocarbons or acetone. As a penetrating lubricant / solvent, it can be used to clean dirt, flush out water, and prevent rust. It quickly dries to a waxy film that stays in place for much longer than a similar product, such as WD-40. In the studio, I use this on tools, pottery wheels, hinges, for loosening rusted parts, and just about anywhere a lubricant is needed. T-9 is similar to WD-40, but improved with the addition of paraffin wax.

A bike shop originally recommended this product to me and seeing how great it works as a dry chain lubricant that doesn’t attract dirt and grim, I quickly began to use it in the studio. You’ll love this stuff too. Just be careful: this is the kind of product that someone will “borrow” if you leave it sitting around. It’s that good.

Advantages of Boeshield T-9

• Cleaner and longer lasting than other solvent-type lubricants

• Non-sticky, doesn’t attract dust

• Will not harm paint, plastic, rubber or fiberglass

• Works on just about everything

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Second Pick: Wahl Hair Clipper Blade Oil

This one might surprise you, but I love Wahl Hair Clipper Blade Oil as an all-purpose studio oil. It’s thin, light, doesn’t build up and sure, it works on hair clipper blades but I put it to use wherever you might use something like 3-in-1 Oil. What I really like is the long spout to get to hard-to-reach places, and the screw-on cap. I use this in situations where a solvent isn’t really needed as this is just pure oil. The bottle also indicates use a honing oil, but I haven’t tried that.

Wahl Hair Clipper Blade Oil is a basic, affordable, light oil in a convenient and functional bottle.

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Third Pick: WD-40

WD-40 is the O.G., the original, and for many, the best penetrating solvent / lubricant. You’ve probably got some in your shop or studio right now. I surely do. I do prefer the clean, non-sticky and waxy finish of the Boeshield T-9 but WD-40 definitely has a place in any studio. Its best use is as a cleaner / degreaser. It doesn’t really stick around too long though, so plan to use in conjunction with some oil with more body. But if you have something like a bunch of rusty bat pins or need to remove a lot of rust, there’s nothing better than a WD-40 soaking.

The other place WD-40 excels is in can design. The permanently attached straw with a two-way spray mechanism is a legitimate innovation. No more hunting for the little red straw. And you can also find WD-40 for sale everywhere.

Final thought on WD-40: no longer my favorite but I still keep it around and use it often.

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Fourth Pick: 3-in-1 Multi-Purpose Oil

Another classic that is simple, effective, and very affordable, 3-In-One Oil is available in 3 oz and 8 oz bottles, there’s also a 4 oz bottle with a long, telescoping spout, which is a great idea. This is a squeeze or dropper type oil that’s great for wheels, casters, door hinges, or lubricating anything squeaky. To my eye (and nose!), it’s not as clean and light as the Wahl Hair Clipper Oil, which is why I prefer that product. But 3-in-One is easy to find almost anywhere. In addition to lubrication it will penetrate rust, clean and protect tools, and just do the job.

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Other Oils and Lubricants for the Shop and Studio

There are a few other oils and lubricants that we recommend for speciality applications in the studio.

Liquid Wrench

Liquid Wrench is another penetrating oil available in a dropper or aerosol bottle. It’s great for freeing stuck nuts and bolts or gummed-up machinery. I’ve used it on super-corroded bolts with success and would recommend it for that.

As with most of these oils, they’ve really expanded their product line so there’s quite a few specialized options. And in bottle innovations, they’ve taken it one step further with a spray can with an LED flashlight. Impressive! Probably great for machinists and engine repair but I haven’t tried that bottle yet.

Tri-Flow Oil Superior Lubricant

Tri-Flow Superior Lubricant is available in dripper or aerosol spray bottle and is a penetrating lubricant with Teflon. Think of it as juiced-up 3-In-1 Oil but it will stay drier and doesn’t attract dirt like 3-In-1. I used this for bicycles before discovering T-9. It’s a good lubricant but is no longer in the mix for us. But if you need a special application with Teflon, this is what you want.

Plastic Oil Dispenser Bottle

These bottles are great if you’ve got an oil you like or want to find one of the above oils in bulk. Make your own dripper with a long spout! Very handy to have around.

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Wrap-Up: The Best Oils and Lubricants for Art Studios

My favorite all-around oil is the Boeshield T-9 penetrating oil because of it’s ease of use and dry, long-lasting waxy finish. I also like that it is a solvent and paraffin wax mix without Teflon, silicone or acetone. It’s the best lubricant I’ve ever used and I put it to use it all around the studio and at home on bicycles.

But I keep a few other oils around too, including Wahl Hair Clipper Oil and WD-40. I like WD-40 for rust and corrosion removal but after it evaporates, there’s not much body or oil left behind. The Wahl Hair Clipper Oil is a simple light oil that is great on tools, wheels, casters, hinges and other uses.

What oils do you like? Please share in the comments?

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The Best Fan for Your Studio

There’s always a need for a fan in an art studio. Drying out projects, moving air around, keeping things cool in the summer… you’re going to need a fan at some point.

My favorite studio fan is the Honeywell HT-900 Air Circulator Fan because it is small, effective, and dirt cheap. It’s so cheap that it’s ok if it gets beat up and covered in clay and gunk. It is definitely not a most powerful fan, instead it is a gentle fan that is great for drying clay or plaster projects on a countertop, or for moving a bit of air around the studio. These fans are also a LOT quieter than a box fan, which is fine by me. Regarding noise, in online reviews some complain that the latest models of these fans are too quiet and don’t work as “white noise” machines anymore.

I also use one of the larger Honeywell models, the HT-908 to move air in the kiln room, but the HT-900 is great for gentle, countertop drying.

For around $15, I can’t imagine finding a better fan at a comparable price.

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Table of Contents

• Our Main Pick for a small studio fan

• Advantages of the Honeywell HT-900 Air Circulator

• Other fan options

• A Note on fans and air quality

• Wrap-up: The Best fan for your studio

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Top Pick For A Small Studio Fan

The Honeywell HT-900 Air Circulator

In the ceramics studios I’ve managed, there’s almost always a fan running to dry projects or move air around the room. A box fan is always an options but for a small, countertop (and cheap!) fan, the best we’ve found is the Honeywell HT-900 Air Circulator. For around $15, you get a 3-speed, 9 inch wide fan that can pivot from horizontal to vertical. The housing and stand is made of plastic and it has plastic blades. It measures about 9” wide, 11” tall and is a bit over 6” deep.

In the studio, we’ve got one of these fans that is about 15 years old and a new one. We had to replace one after the cord ripped at the back of the fan after years of heavy use in a community ceramics studio. We belive a tool should be a “lifetime” investment, but 15 years for a countertop fan is a great run.

If you want something bigger, go for the 12 inch wide Honeywell HT-908 (shop at amazon), which is more of a floor or table fan. It’s built exactly the same as the smaller HT-900, but measures a total of 14.5” wide, 15” tall and 8” deep. This larger model is great to move air in a kiln room.

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Advantages of the Honeywell HT-900 Air Circulator

An older (back) and brand new Honeywell HT-900. We use these fans hard! They get dirty with clay but just keep working.

This small fan has a lot going for it:

• Compact

• Pivots

• 3 speeds

• Quiet

• Easy to store when not in use

• Moves a lot of air

• Approximately 3 foot cord

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Other Fan Options

There are tons of fans out there: box fans, desk fans, pivot fans…. As long as they work, they’ll do what you need them to do—move air. Here are a few of our favorites:

Vornado Compact Air Circulator

Vornado makes great fans, with a variety of different models. The Vornado 133 Compact Air Circulator is my number two pick for a fan and it comes highly rated on Amazon and other sites. In many ways, it’s a better fan and built more durably than other options with features such as a removable air grill for cleaning. It does have just two speeds. If you like quality, go with a Vornado. But for a studio fan that gets dirty and covered with clay, I like the cheap Honeywell fans for a busy community studio. But for your personal studio or home, where you know you can keep it just as clean as you’d like, the Vornado is great.

Holmes Convertible Tabletop and Clip Fan

The Holmes Convertible Desk and Clip Fan is a great little combo fan that gives you a lot of versatility around the studio. You can use it as a gentle table top fan, or quickly remove the clip from the base, and attach it to a chair, pottery wheel splash pan, cabinet door or anywhere else. This is useful if you need air to move in a very specific direction, or you want to move the fan around the studio easily. Just make sure you don’t lose the base if you need that option. Small clip fans are also great to put in your bathroom at home or for a desktop where space is a premium.

Lasko High Velocity Floor or Wall Fan

If you need to move a lot of air or have a bigger room, you will want the power of a fan like the Lasko 20” High Velocity Floor or Wall Fan. This will really move air and is great for a shop, garage or bigger room. The all-metal construction and sturdy base make this a great option at around $60. This 3-speed model with a pivoting head is highly rated on various consumer sites, and it also has a built-in handle to make it easy to pick up and move around.

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A Note on Fans and Air Quality

If you are working in a ceramic studio, woodshop, or anywhere generating dust, be cautious and use best practices when using a fan. You don’t want to breathe the dust generated in these studios. If the air is dusty, a fan is only going to keep this dust in the air and possibly make things worse. Before using a fan, make sure you are keeping floors clean, that you are not kicking up dust, that you are using air filters if necessary, and that the fans are operating on low speed so that the air flow doesn’t generate more dust. If you can have open windows or doors, aim the fan outdoors. If the air continues to be dusty, stop using the fan and assess where the dust is coming from and remediate those problems before turning your fans on again.

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Wrap-Up: The Best Fan for Your Studio

Two Honeywell HT-900 Air Circulator fans. The latest model is at right.

The Honeywell HT-900 is a great, compact and cheap fan that moves a lot of air and is very durable. It holds up just as well as its more expensive counterparts but if it gets beat up or you spill glaze and clay on it, you won’t worry too much. If you need a more powerful fan, step up to the Honeywell HT-908 Floor Fan, which is also effective and relatively sturdy for it’s price and size. Both of these models are quieter than a comparable box fan, and take up less room on a countertop or floor.

Whether you are working in ceramics, sculpture or painting, there’s almost always a need for a fan and the Honeywell fans are cheap, effective and they just work.

What fans do you use in the studio? Please share in the comments.

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The Best Heavy Duty Bucket Dolly

A Chemical Guys Professional bucket dolly after a cleaning. A clean dolly is a beautiful thing!

A bucket dolly is a great addition to your studio or workshop. Dollies are great for anything heavy, and also maximize studio space by allowing you to move and reorganize for any task. In my studio, we use them for glazes and clay slop and they really save time, energy and reduce possible back strain.

In this post, I’ll review a different bucket dollies, show how to make your own, and share a few tips and tricks.

The best bucket dolly I’ve found is the Chemical Guys Professional Bucket Dolly. I’ve had a few in use for 5 years in a busy academic ceramic studio, and these dollies are still going strong. They are worth every penny. I have also used homemade dollies and other options, but the quality of the casters, ease of clean-up, and large plastic tightening screws make the Chemical Guys Dolly a superior product.

Keep scrolling for the full review with pictures and more info.

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Table of Contents

• Top Pick for Bucket Dollys

• Advantages of the Chemical Guys Professional Bucket Dolly

• Other Bucket Dolly Options

• How to Make Your Own Bucket Dolly

• Other wheeled options for the studio

• Wrap-Up: The Best Bucket Dolly

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Top Pick for a Heavy Duty Bucket Dolly

The Chemical Guys Professional Bucket Dolly after a few months of heavy use for reclaim / slop storage.

The Chemical Guys Professional Bucket Dolly is the top pick for the best 5 gallon bucket dolly on the market. It’s made of thick, easy-to-clean plastic, has 5 high-quality, full swivel casters, 2 of these casters have locking levers, and 3 large plastic screws to lock in your bucket. I have used these buckets at two different studios and even after years of hard use, they just keep working. I usually clean the dollies a few times a year and at that time, hit the bearings with a bit of grease such as Boeshield T-9 or 3-in-1 Oil. As of this writing, these bucket dollies cost about $40 each.

Advantages of the Chemical Guys Professional Bucket Dolly

These dollies just work and keep working. They do exactly what you want, the roll easily, and they are well built and long lasting. If you don’t have your buckets on wheels, you’ll experience an immediate quality-of-life improvement with these. Your back will thank you! This is just one of those simple but effective products that really help in a studio.

What you can do with a 5 Gallon Bucket Dolly

The Bucket dolly after cleaning

• Glaze storage

• Clay reclaim and slop storage

• Store a mixing drill with a long drill shaft

• Move for clean-up or glaze pouring

• Dry material storage

• Store bricks or kiln posts

• Anything you would put in a 5 gallon bucket

• At home, great for garage storage

• Also useful for cleaning your car or truck

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More Pics of the Chemical Guys Professional Bucket Dolly

These images are of a Chemical Guys Professional Bucket Dolly before and after cleaning. It’s been in use for approximately two years in a busy community studio.

A bucket dolly after a few months of use with a bucket for slop storage.

Detail pic of the large plastic screw and wheel lock mechanism.

Check out those red casters! It’s very easy to clean.

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Other Bucket Dolly Options

Bucket Wheelies

Bucket Wheelies from Bill van Gilder

A great budget option comes from potter and tool maker Bill van Gilder. His plywood Bucket Wheelies are are functional and economical at $24 each. If you coat these with a water-based sealant, especially the exposed plywood sides, you should have a long-lasting and easy to clean wooden dolly.

Other Plastic Dolly Options

If you want a plastic dolly, the Original Bucket Dolly is another option. It is usually listed at a higher price than the Chemical Guys Bucket, around $50, and the screws are metal with a plastic cap. If you are working with clay, it’s best to avoid metal when possible as the wet clay can lead to rusting and other problems.

There are a few other plastic bucket dolly options we’ve seen, but none that we’d recommend. One option, the TCD Parts 5 Gallon Bucket Dolly, looks a lot like office chair feet / casters, and just doesn’t seem useful for a studio.

Here are some product links to the various bucket dollies, to compare prices.

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How To Make Your Own Bucket Dolly

This can be a great way to make your own dollies of any size, especially if you are making a bunch for all the glazes in your studio. If you just need one or two, it’s probably easiest to order one of the dollies mentioned above.

Here’s what you need:

• Plywood cut into squares or circles. Use plywood that is a minimum of 5/8 inch thick. This can be ordered online but probably cheapest to go to your local hardware / plywood supplier.

• 2 inch swivel casters with or without brake (This 4 pack is $14.99)

• wood screws

• Drill

Steps to making your dolly

1. Cut and sand plywood. Make sure it’s a bit larger than the bucket you need

2. For a bonus, screw or glue on raised corners such as in the van Gilder Bucket Wheelie pictured above

3. If desired, treat plywood with 1-3 coats of a water-based sealant, such as an outdoor deck sealant. This will make cleanup easier and extend the life of your dolly.

4. Turn board upside down and arrange casters evenly. Trace holes with pencil

5. Pre-drill holes with a small drill bit

6. Screw casters to board

7. Ready to use!

Here’s a video from YouTube on how to make a 5 Gallon Bucket Dolly.

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Other Wheeled Options for the Studio

Moving Dolly

An 18x30 inch moving dolly is a great addition to the studio. Put a piece of plywood on top and you’ve got a perfect way to store up to 800-1000 lbs of clay. This can be useful if you need to move clay around, or want to move clay for cleanup. This two pack of moving dollies is just $40.

Rubbermaid Ingredient Bin

The wheeled Rubbermaid Commercial Ingredient Bin is a wonderful addition to a studio where you are mixing glazes from scratch. It can hold well over a 50-pound bag of dry materials. We use them to store dry materials such as plaster, feldspars, sand, silica, etc. They are sturdy, tough, keep things dry, easy to scoop, and access, and best of all, they are on wheels. Wheels just make everything easier in a studio.

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Wrap-Up: The Best Heavy Duty Bucket Dolly

Through years of experience and research, I’ve found the Chemical Guys Professional Bucket Dolly to be the best 5 gallon bucket dolly on the market. It’s exactly what we use in our own studio, and what we’ve purchased for studios we have managed or consulted with. It’s durable, functional and at $40, worth every penny. Buy one and you’ve made a lifetime investment.

In addition to Bucket Dollies, other wheeled devices such as moving dollies and Rubbermaid Commercial storage containers will make your life easier in the studio..

What wheeled storage containers to you use? Have you made your own dollies? Leave a comment with your experience below.

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The Best Tools for Getting Started in a Pottery or Ceramics Studio

There’s a huge variety of tools for working with clay, but you don’t need everything out there, especially if you are just starting out. There are a few basics that will do 95% or more of studio tasks, and these are the same tools that you’ll use over and over again as you continue to work with clay.

In general, it’s best to pay a bit more for quality, well-built tools that will stand the test of time. But lower-cost options can be fine too, especially if you are just trying pottery for the first time or are on a budget.

This post will cover a tool kit, 3 additional tools, one apron, and one tool bin recommended for beginners. Here’s a quick overview of the recommendations:

• Kemper "Original" 8-piece Pottery Tool Kit: Shop at Amazon | Shop at Blick

• Kemper F97 “hard” fettling knife: Shop at Amazon | Shop at Blick

• Mudtools Shredder: Shop at Amazon

• Kemper serrated rib: Shop at Amazon | Shop at Blick

• Split-leg cotton apron by Black Stallion: Shop at Amazon

• 10.5” Translucent Art Bin: Shop at Amazon | Shop at Blick

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Table of Contents

• Basic Pottery Tool Kit

• Fettling Knives

• Clay Shredders / Rasps

• Scoring tools

• Aprons

• Tool Boxes and Bags

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Kemper Pottery Tool Kit

The Kemper "Original" 8-piece Pottery Tool Kit includes the most-used tools for wheel throwing and hand building. All these tools are must haves.

The kit includes:

• Wooden Rib

• Sponge

• Loop tool

• Ribbon tool

• Needle tool

• Wooden knife or modeling tool

• Metal Rib

• Wire tool

At $15-20, that’s a great deal! This Kemper Original Tool Kit does cost a bit more than other kits, but that’s because it is made out of higher quality wood and metal. That means the loop tools will stay sharper longer, the wooden knife won’t warp, and the wooden rib will hold up for years of use. It’s worth the extra few bucks. Look for the dark brown wood aka hardwood, and you’ll know that you will soon be working with quality Kemper tools.

Budget Tool Kits

If you are just starting out, there are options to get a tool kit for less than $10. The metal uses is thinner and the wood is “soft” on these kits, so it just doesn’t hold up under the wet, heavy use on a pottery wheel. So these tools won’t last as long, but they’ll definitely last long enough to get you started. And then as they wear out, you can replace them with higher quality tools if you want to get serious.

Here’s a few links to generic tool kits and to the Kemper kit, so that you can compare prices.

A final note on these tool kits: Students ask me about sharpening the loop tools. Yes, you can sharpen these tools with a whetstone or bench grinder. But the metal, even on the Kemper kits, is not designed for sharpening over and over. Expect to be able to sharpen a loop tool 2 or maybe 3 times before the metal gets so thin that it’s unusable. At that point, it’s time to buy a new loop tool. A sharp, relatively new loop tool will result in faster and more even trimming.

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Fettling Knife

Kemper Fettling Knife

A fettling knife is something I use every day in the studio. It’s a basic steel knife that is not too sharp, but not exactly dull either. The name comes from the word fettle, which means to clean up rough ends of cast metal or clay.

A fettling knife can be used to cut clay evenly and cleanly, and is a superior option to other knives when working with clay. Some people use box knives or X-acto knives, but those dull quickly and are prone to rusting. You might use an old kitchen knife but usually these are either too thick and dull.

Like the tool kit, it pays to get a higher quality knife. The Kemper knives recommended here have better quality steel that isn’t likely to warp or bend under normal use, a better handle, and most importantly, better glue that will keep these two pieces attached. Trust me, I once ordered cheap knives for an academic studio and after a few months half the knives were bent or the blade had fallen out of the handle. They just weren’t worth it.

My favorite fettling option is the Kemper F97 “hard” fettling knife. It has a 4.5” steel blade, a 3.5” handle, and it is a workhorse. The harder steel knife is less likely to bend while cutting, and it makes a great straight edge for smoothing and finishing work.

The Kemper F96 “soft” fettling knife has the same size and shape as the F97, but is more likely to bend under normal use. Sometimes there is a need to bend your blade a bit, such as for a hard to reach area of a sculpture, so this knife can come in handy.

An interesting option is the Xiem Tools Pottery Knife. A bit smaller than a fettling knife, the Xiem knife is 6” long and has the feel of a small kitchen paring knife.

There are cheaper fettling knife options out there with wooden handles, but I can’t recommend a non-Kemper fettling knife. In my experience these knives are made with inferior metal and are prone to falling apart.

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Clay Shredder or Rasp

The Mudtools Clay Shredder

A clay shredder or rasp is an awesome tool. Once you have one, you’ll find a bunch of uses for it, including trimming, evening out slab work, cleaning up edges, or adding a bevel. I remember one of my early instructor’s calling these tools “the sculptor’s friend.” They work great on pots too.

There are a variety of options, but our favorite is the Mudtools Shredder. It’s got a comfortable, curved handle that doesn’t take up a lot of room in your toolbox, and the shredder blade is easily removed when you need to replace it. It’s also the easiest style of shaver to clean. If it’s easy to clean, you’ll reach for it first.

For a few bucks less, you can get a similar shredder from Creative Hobbies. The only drawback is that it has a larger handle and the blade is a bit enclosed, making it harder to clean. Otherwise, it’s a great option.

If you want to expand beyond the small curved shredder blade, your best bet is the Surform planer from Stanley. They’ve got a small shaver, similar to the Mudtools, two sizes of flat planes, and a round shaver. I’ve used them all, and they are all great. But, you probably don’t need those bigger shavers until you have bigger projects or are working with plaster molds.

If you do get the Mudtools rasp, or a similar style with the small curved blade, you can get replacement blades such as a 6 pack of replacement curved blades from Stanley. The shredder blade will wear out after use, but it really depends on what type of clay you are using and how clean and relatively rust free you keep your shredder. Just test the blade from time to time and get replacements as needed.

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Scoring Tool

The Ateco Decorating Comb. Good for frosting and ceramics.

These tools go by a variety of names including serrated rib or scraper, and scoring tool. If you want to go budget, find an old metal fork and it will do the job in a rough kind of way. But it can be nice to have a dedicated tool for this job and I use the serrated ribs over and over until they are dull, and then I buy a new one.

The best option is the Kemper serrated rib, which is available for about $3 at Dick Blick and other sites. It has a small, compact seration that works great for joining clay with the score and slip method. The curve edges allow you to maneuver the tool any way you want to go, allowing you to quickly and effectively add scoring marks to your projects.

Another great option is the Ateco triangular decorating comb. It has bigger grooves, which can be great for adding design texture, or scoring the back of tiles.

A final option is the Xiem retractable scoring tool. It’s super compact, has an innovative design, but it’s not my favorite. The Xiem tool is a bit more work to get open and started. I always reach for the serrated rib first, and so that’s what I’d recommend for beginners too.

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Apron

Split-leg cotton apron from Black Stallion

To stay clean in the studio, you can cover up with an extra-large t-shirt or an old button down, but an apron is usually the easiest and most functional option. For functionality at an affordable price, you can’t beat this cotton split-leg green apron by Black Stallion.

Although intended for welding, this split-leg apron is also very functional for wheel throwing. The main advantage is it has an adjustable clip buckle at the neck, and two buckles behind each leg. The split leg has a reinforced joint, but it doesn’t have the doubled-up fabric often found in pottery aprons.

This apron is available in three lengths: 36 inches, 42 inches, and 49 inches. The 36 or 42 will suit most people (A standard kitchen apron is often 30 to 33 inches long.

Cross-back barber style apron from Under NY Sky

Another interesting apron option that is great for handbuilding is the Nylon Cross-Back Barber Apron from Under NY Sky. It costs a bit more but won’t break the bank and it’s got a great look with lots of function. The nylon is appealing for ease of clean up, and it’s also got a clip at the neck and a short split leg. The apron is available in four colors. It’s not as long as a pottery apron, but if you just need coverage on your torso, it’s great.

For more, visit our full review of pottery and ceramic aprons.

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Tool Box

Once you have a variety of tools, a box or bin will help keep things organized. A large yogurt container or small bag with air and drainage holes can work, but my favorite option is a 10.5” Translucent Art Bin.

This bin is big enough to hold a basic kit of tools, but not so big that it’s hard to store. When closed it can be stored horizontally or vertically and if it gets dirty, the whole thing can be cleaned and rinsed. There’s also a variety of sizes, so you can pick the one that works best for you. If you’d like, you can also easily drill holes in this plastic for a bit of air circulation if you have to put your tools away wet.

If you prefer an upright canvas tote option, the JJring Nylon Artist Tote bag is a great option that comes in 4 different colors. For $14, it’s got a lot of features including 16 external pockets for small tools and a larger inner chamber. Or if you want a neutral / natural fabric color option, go with the Harbor Freight Canvas Riggers bag.

Whichever box or bag option you decide on, keep in mind that open storage will allow your tools to dry and stay rust free.

What tools are your absolute essentials in the studio? Let us know in the comments.

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The Best Heavy Duty Clean Up Sponges

A stack of large yellow sponges. Bright yellow are new sponges, the darker sponges are about six months old.

Every art studio needs cleaning, and large yellow sponges are one of the most effective cleanup tools. They can wipe, mop up liquid, and be used over and over again. If you are working with clay, this is a must have tool in the studio. Small sponges, rags, or towels will simply not compete with the large surface area, long life, flexibility, and reusability of these sponges.

The only problem is that most large yellow sponges for sale online are low-quality generics that can disintegrate and fall apart, sometimes within weeks.

The best large sponge I’ve found is the Armaly ProPlus Heavy Duty Grouting and Concrete Sponge. For the past several years, I’ve been using these sponges in a busy community ceramics studio and the sponges will hold up under heavy use for six months or more. There is simply not a comparable sponge on the market and I believe these sponges are worth the slightly extra price, especially when they are being used day after day and don’t need to be replaced as often. I’ve been using sponges like this for throwing on the pottery wheel for almost 20 years and the Armaly sponges are the best I’ve ever used.

Shopping tip: Lowes generally has the best prices for these sponges

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Table of Contents

• Top Pick for Heavy Duty Large Sponges

• Advantages of Armaly ProPlus Heavy Duty Grout Sponges

• What you can do with large yellow sponges

• Other options

• Wrap-up: The best Heavy Duty Large Yellow Sponges

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Top Pick for Heavy Duty Large Sponges

Detail of the pore structure on a new Armaly ProPlus Heavy Duty sponge.

The Armaly ProPlus Heavy Duty Grouting and Concrete Sponge is the top pick for the best large yellow sponge. As of this writing, they typically cost around $15–$22 for a 6 pack of sponges, or they can be purchased individually as well. They cost a bit more than other options, but the exceptional life span of these sponges makes them a solid investment for your studio. Large yellow sponges are typically 7.5 x 5.5 x 2 inches.

The Advantages of Armaly ProPlus Heavy Duty Sponges

These sponges just last and do the job you expect them to do in an art studio, such as clean up, light mopping, or removing glaze. If you were using these sponges for grouting or plaster work, you might think of them as semi-disposable. But in a studio, you want a tool that will last and be useful, and these are a versatile option.

One of the best features of these high-quality polyester sponges is their ability to pick up and then easily squeeze out a large volume of water. These heavy duty sponges hold up for any job and can last six months or longer, even in a shared studio such as a busy ceramics studio. In an individual studio, these sponges might even last a year or two or longer with light usage.

To research large sponges, I’ve bought just about every type of large sponge and put them to use in academic and community studios used by one hundred or more students every week. In this environment, sponges receive almost constant use throughout the day. Some of the supposedly “heavy duty” sponges started to break down in a few weeks—these were typically sponges from generic multipacks. The Armaly ProPlus Sponges are the longest-lasting cleanup sponge.

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What You Can Do With Large Yellow Sponges

• Clean up

• Pottery wheel and throwing clean up

• Light mopping

• Glaze clean up on bisqueware

• Wetting watercolor paper

• Plaster work

• Grouting

• Concrete

• Tile installation

• Household cleanup

• Car and boat washing

Other Options

QEP Grouting Sponge

The QEP Grouting, Cleaning and Washing Sponge is another great option for large sponges, and at $10 for a 6 pack, offers an exceptional value. I’ve used these and they do work, they’re just not as good as the Armaly ProPlus. Amazon reviewers also praise the QEP sponges for toughness but quite a few found it to be too tough and didn’t wring out as well. I take a tough but not as absorbent sponge over one that breaks down, so if you are looking to save a few bucks, definitely give the QEP sponges a try.

Creative Hobbies Large Sponges

Another option is the Creative Hobbies Value Pack of 4 Sponges, currently around $9 on Amazon. These cost a bit more per sponge than the QEP, but also offer an exceptional value and should do the job.

These are the three best options for use in a pottery studio. I’ve also ordered every sort of generic bulk pack on Amazon and found those to be a waste of money, especially if they are going to be used intensively for wheel throwing or in a busy studio. Stick to one of these three option and you won’t be disappointed.

Wrap Up: The Best Heavy Duty Large Yellow Sponge

In our research, we’ve found the Armaly ProPlus Heavy Duty Grouting and Concrete Sponge to be the best large yellow sponge on the market. It combines exceptional durability with a relatively soft sponge that will pick up large amounts of water. In short, it will do what you need a big sponge to do and work over and over, lasting six months or more. Sure, it costs a bit more but the long life is worth it.

The QEP Grouting and Creative Hobbies Large Yellow Sponges are also good options that are more affordable. All three work great, we just expect the Armaly ProPlus to have a significantly longer life in the studio.

Click on the links below to shop for multipacks or single sponges.

A Few More Detail Images of the Armaly ProPlus Sponges

What sponges do you use in the studio? Let us know in the comments.

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You might also enjoy:

Best Cleanup Tools for Ceramic Studios
Best Aprons for Pottery and Ceramics
Best HEPA Vacuum for Ceramic studios
Gift Guide For Potters

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